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Rough Country 3-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks and Red Spacers (05-23 6-Lug Tacoma)

Item TT14591
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$249.95 (kit)

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      Product Videos

      Merideth: Hey, guys. So, today we're checking out the Rough Country 3-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks and Red Spacers, fitting all 2005 and newer 6-lug Toyota Tacomas. So, if you are in search of an easy and affordable way to level out and lift your truck, create a better-looking and more functional stance for your Tacoma while also allowing you to mount up to a 32-inch tire, this is gonna be a great kit to check out.Now, this kit will do a great job at getting rid of the factory rake in the front, which will help you even out the truck stance, and also significantly increase the Tacoma's ground clearance, making you a bit more functional in off-road situations.Now, when it comes to tire size, Rough Country recommends a max tire size of 265/70R17 on the stock wheels. However, if you have an aftermarket setup, a 32 will fit. A 32-inch tire fills out the wheel well very nicely while still having some clearance for a bit of articulation in your suspension. Now, I would like to mention that with a 33, you may experience some rubbing in the wheel well, so I would keep that in mind. If you're sticking to flat ground, they will physically go onto your truck but you may experience some rubbing if you do articulate your suspension. Nonetheless, this will be a great option if you wanna pick up a larger wheel and tire for your truck and you need that extra ground clearance for taking your Tacoma out on the trail.Now, when it comes to what is included in the kit, you're going to get multiple components here. Now, starting with the spacers for the front, these are gonna come in at roughly 1.5 inches, but combined with the suspension's geometry, as well as the spring compression, that's going to achieve a 3-inch lift in the front. Now, the rear blocks are going to be true to size at 2 inches. This combination will keep the Tacoma super level, and the included shocks are going to increase that ride quality in the back.Now, the shocks will be Rough Country's Premium N3 shocks that'll be nitrogen-charged for a responsive ride, and they're going to be very durable with durable shock housings and seals to make sure that they hold up not only on the street but also off-road. Now, the front spacers will be made of a CNC-machined aircraft-grade billet aluminum material for superior durability and strength, and will come with a nice red powder coat finish on top for corrosion resistance, of course, but also for a sporty look inside the wheel well. Now, the rear lift blocks will be made of a steel material. Those are also going to be very durable underneath your leaf spring there. And those are gonna have a nice black powder coat finish, of course, to protect from any rusting.Now, it is worth mentioning that when you pick up a larger lift kit size like this option, it can put extra stress on your upper control arm ball joint. And if that's a concern of yours, we do have control arms available on the site that will accommodate for this lift size. This will, however, come with differential drop spacers as you can see here. It's also gonna come with bolts included that are going to flatten out that CV angle for better drivability. So, you are correcting some suspension geometry with this kit, which I do really like.Now, when it comes to pricing, this will sit at roughly $350, making it a very affordable way to lift and level your truck. Now, when comparing this to other choices, you have on one hand some more budget-friendly options that will come with just spacers and minimal components in the kit compared to this one. Now then on the more expensive side, choices will usually come with either more components that you see here or different solutions to lift your truck. So, instead of a spacer and a block for the rear, you'll usually see larger or taller struts for the front and larger leaf springs for the back.Now, when choosing a lift kit, it comes down to what you need for your personal application. So, if you're in search of a middle-ground option with everything that you need to get your truck lifted at a solid height for more capability and a taller tire without breaking the bank, this is gonna be a great choice.Now, when it comes to install, this will be a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, and will be pretty straightforward if you have some mechanical experience. Now, with the right tools, you should be able to get the job done in roughly four hours, making it a pretty quick suspension job. Now, speaking of the install, one of our installers here is going to walk you through it step-by-step. So, that's gonna wrap it up for my review. Let's go ahead and get into the install.Man: Tools required for this install include a 0.5-inch impact gun, a 3/8 impact gun, a 0.5-inch airgun, a ratchet, a hammer, a pry bar, a 19 and 17-millimeter wrench, a 15 and 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench, a 10, 12, 14, 17, 19, 20, 21, and 22-millimeter socket, a pair of needle-nose pliers, a couple of extensions, a couple of swivel adapters, and a couple of pole jacks or jack stands. What's up, guys? Today we're installing a lift kit on our Tacoma, so let's get started.So, the first thing we're gonna want to do is remove all of our wheels. Now there's gonna be six 21-millimeter lug nuts on each one. So, I'll take a 21-millimeter socket on an impact gun and get these off. And now we can repeat that same thing for our other three wheels.So, our first step's gonna be to remove our tie rod. So, we have a cotter pin up here. We'll take a pair of needle-nose pliers, bend it back straight so we can pull it out, and then we'll remove our nut to get our tie rod off. So, now we can remove our castle nut with a 19-millimeter socket, and then we're gonna leave it on a couple of threads so that we can bang on the side of the knuckle to release our ball joint. And then we'll take a hammer to hit the side of the knuckle right here to pop our ball joint outta place. And then we can remove our nut. Slide that out of the way.So, now we can tackle our sway bar end link. This is gonna be a 17-millimeter nut holding that in. We'll take a 17-millimeter socket on an impact gun to get that off. So, now we can remove our brake line brackets. So, the one on the upper control arm's gonna be a 10-millimeter. So, I'm gonna grab a 10-mill socket and get that off. And then we'll put our bolt back so we don't lose it. Now our bottom one's gonna be right above our caliper, and this one's gonna be a 12-millimeter. We can wiggle our bracket out of place, and we'll throw that bolt back in its hole as well.So, now moving to our upper control arm ball joint, we're gonna go ahead and remove this cotter pin. Now this one's a little different than the tie rod cotter pin. This one goes straight through and then it has a hook around. So, we can grab it with some needle-nose and pull that out. Now we can remove our castle nut. It's gonna be a 19-millimeter. And we'll leave it a couple of threads on so we can do the same thing with our ball joint, tap the spindle to pop it out. And then we'll get our hammer and strike the side of our spindle. Now we can pinch down and fully remove our nut.So, at this point, you're gonna want to get caught up on the other side doing the same thing, the reason being we'll be able to move our sway bar out of the way of our strut assembly so that we can get it out. So, now coming to the top of our strut, we can go ahead and remove our three 14-millimeter nuts. Now, it's gonna be easier if you tackle the one in the back first, so that's what we're gonna do. We got a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench on that. And once you get a couple of turns, you'll be able to get it out by hand. If you were to do these first, then it wouldn't be loose enough on the back to get it out by hand because the whole thing would be weighing down. So, now with our back one out, we'll do the same thing for the front.So, now we're gonna remove our lower strut bolt. So, I'm gonna get a 19-millimeter wrench on the bolthead, and a 19-millimeter socket on our nut. And we can remove our nut and washer, remove our bolt, and then we can remove our whole strut assembly.So, our next step is to remove our splash shield. So, we're in the fender well of our passenger front wheel. So, we can take a 10-millimeter socket to remove these two bolts on the inside, and then we'll do the same thing on our driver's side fender well. And now we can come back to the front side right below our bumper. We have seven more 10-millimeter bolts to remove to remove our splash guard.So, next, we can remove our four 12-millimeter bolts that are holding in our skidpan. So, we'll grab a 12-millimeter socket and take these off. So, now once we have our skid plate removed, we're gonna be coming over to the driver's side skid brace. Now, we have a lip here that's gonna block our differential mount once we put our spacer in here, so we're gonna have to cut some clearance. Ours was already cut in a previous video, however, Rough Country recommends that you go 4.5 inches from the backside of the skid brace, and an inch up from the bottom on the right-hand side when you're facing the front of the car. So, we're gonna remove our four 17-millimeter bolts on this skid brace and our three 17-millimeters on our passenger side skid brace and we can remove those.So, now you're gonna want to go ahead and grab yourself a pole jack. We're gonna be supporting our front differential, and then we're gonna be removing our 22-millimeter bolts on both sides that hold our mounts for our differential to our frame. Now 22-millimeter bolt on the bottom, a 19-millimeter nut on top. So, we're gonna remove those and then slowly lower our pole jack to let our differential sag down a little bit. And then we'll be sliding in our spacer that's included in the kit. And then we also have a longer bolt to account for the spacer as well as the locking nut and a couple of washers as well.So, now we can go ahead and loosen our bolts. We're gonna do this about halfway first so that we can lower down our pole jack. And then we're gonna do one side at a time. I'll get my 19-millimeter wrench up top and a 22-millimeter socket and loosen this up. I'll slide over and do the same thing on this side. So, now our driver's side mount is being a little stubborn, so I'm gonna get in there with an air hammer. It's, again, a 19-millimeter wrench up top, 22-millimeter socket.So, now that we have our bolts loosened up, we can go ahead and lower our pole jack to get that gap here, and then we'll do one side at a time. Then we'll loosen this side a little bit more, just to get a little more clearance. Now we can slide in our spacer. We're gonna be reusing the large washer from our stock hardware, so we'll put that up. And then we have one of the washers included in our kit that's gonna go over our bolt. Line up our spacer. And then we're gonna grab another washer for the top and throw our locking nut on.So, now we'll do that same thing on this side. So, we'll take our new bolt with our washer included in the kit and our large washer from our stock hardware. And then we'll slide our spacer into place, line up our hole, and then we'll get our washer and our locking nut on the top side. Now we can go ahead and raise up a little bit on our pole jack and tighten down our hardware. Now our new bolt is gonna be switching from a 22-millimeter to a 19-millimeter and the top nut is gonna stay a 19-millimeter. So, I'll get a 19-millimeter wrench on top, a 19-millimeter socket and tighten this bolt down. And then we'll do the same thing on this side.So, now we're ready to install our spacer onto our strut assembly. Now Rough Country does recommend that you put a small amount of medium-strength thread locker on all the threads here before putting the spacer on and tightening down our stock hardware. And then once we have that done, we can slide our spacer over, and then we'll be reinstalling our factory 14-millimeter nuts. It's a little tight, so you can take your 14-millimeter socket just to kind of get that hand-tight. And then we'll grab our impact gun, put our 14 on there, and tighten these down. And now we're ready to get this back on the truck.So, now we can go ahead and reinstall our strut assembly. So, we're gonna go up through the upper control arm. And once we have it through the top, I'm just gonna grab a nut, throw on hand-tight just to hold it into place. And now we can work on our lower strut mount. So, now we can slide the bottom of our strut into its mounting location. And now with a pry bar, you can pry down on the lower control arm as we try to get our bolt through. And then we can get our washer and our nut for the other side. Spin that on.So, now we can come back to the top of our strut assembly and install the rest of our nuts. Now, these are gonna be a little bit bigger than the OEM. These are 15s instead of 14s. And a little tip, since we don't have a lot of room to work on this back nut, we're gonna fully tighten down our front two first. That's gonna pull our strut assembly to the top. We'll be able to hand-thread our back bolt most of the way, and we'll only have to get a couple of turns on our back bolt. So, I'll take a 15-millimeter ratcheting wrench to tighten these down. So, now we can tighten down our lower strut mount. So, we'll get that 19-millimeter wrench back on the bolt side and 19-millimeter socket on the nut side and tighten that down.So, now we can reconnect our knuckle to our upper control arm ball joint. Now I have a pole jack with some pressure on it pushing up on the lower control arm, then I'm gonna get a pry bar under our spring to push down on our upper control arm. We'll get it through the hole in our knuckle and get our nut on the bottom side, and then we can tighten that down. So, now we can grab a 19-millimeter socket to tighten up our castle nut. So, now we can reinstall our cotter pin. The one for our upper control arm ball joint is gonna be the one with the hook.So, now once we have our strut assembly installed and our upper control arm connected to our spindle, we can go ahead and catch up on the other side, get our strut assembly installed, get the upper control arm bolted up, and then we can come back and work on our tie rod and our sway bar end link. So, now I have a pole jack on the lower control arm just to push up a little bit and make it easier to get our tie rod in place. Now you're gonna want to make sure when you're tightening it down you line up this hole in the stud with these cutouts in the castle nut so that we can get our cotter pin through.And now we can take our 19-millimeter socket on an impact gun and tighten down our castle nut. Now we can reinstall our cotter pin. Slide it through, and then we'll grab our needle-nose to bend our edges back. Now we can reconnect our sway bar end link. Slide that through, get our 17-millimeter nut on the other side, and then we'll tighten that down with a 17-millimeter socket on our impact gun.Now we can reinstall our brake line brackets. So, we'll start with the top of upper control arm and we'll finish tightening that up with a 10-millimeter socket. And now we can get our lower bracket, and then we'll finish tightening this one down with a 12-millimeter socket. And then once you're done with that, you can repeat the same process on the other side.So, now coming back to the front of the truck, we can go ahead and reinstall our skid brace. Now the one that's not cut is gonna be for that passenger side and our cut one's going back on the driver's side. So, we can thread in our 17-millimeter bolts. And then we'll take our 17-millimeter socket to tighten these down. And now we can reinstall our driver's side skid brace. This is the one we made our cut on. We'll do the same thing with our 17-millimeter bolts. And then once again, we'll be tightening those down with our 17-millimeter socket.So, now we can reinstall our skid plate. We have two hooks on the front that they're gonna hook onto and then we have two bolt holes and two bolt holes. We'll be reinstalling our 12-millimeter bolts. Remember, we have one missing, so we won't be installing this one. And then once we have our bolts loosely threaded, we can go ahead and tighten them down with the 12-millimeter socket.So, now coming to the back, our first step's gonna be to remove our shock. So, we'll get a 17-millimeter wrench on the bolthead side and a 17-millimeter socket on an impact gun on the nut side. And then we can slide our bolt out. And then we can work on our top. So, now we have a 14-millimeter nut on the top. However, if you get a wrench on here, the whole shaft likes to spin with it. So, we're gonna get a vice grip, put it up here all the way at the top, and then use the open-ended side of a 14-millimeter wrench to spin that nut and get this free. So, now we can get our vice grip on up top and we'll get that resting against the frame rail to give us some resistance while we get our open-ended wrench on our nut. And then once we have our nut removed, slide off our hardware.Now we can remove our shock. So, we'll go ahead and wiggle at the bottom and then we can slide it right out through the top. So, now we can come over to the passenger side and do the same thing on this shock. It's gonna be that same 17-millimeter wrench on the bolthead side and a 17-millimeter socket on the nut side. And then we can fish our bolt through.So, now coming to the top, we're gonna have to do this a little bit differently than the other side. We don't have enough to grab onto up top, so we're gonna be coming from the bottom. So, we'll get our vice grips, try to feed them through, get that nice and tight, and then we can work on our nut up top. And then we can get this shock out of here.So, now that we have our shocks removed from the rear, we can go ahead and unbolt our U-bolts. Now, I've got a couple of pole jacks underneath of our axle tubes. That way, we can lower it down a little bit to get our spacers in between, and then we can raise it back up and put on our new U-bolts. I've also gone ahead and sprayed down all of these nuts on both sides with some penetrating lubricant just to make it easier to get those off.It might be a good idea to get yourself a pair of safety glasses as well because rust tends to fly everywhere when you take these off. So, now we'll get in there with a 19-millimeter socket to remove our nuts. Now we can get our U-bolts outta here. And now we can do the same thing on the other side. So, now before we start to drop the axle, we're gonna want to go ahead and disconnect our e-brake cable on both sides. This is gonna be a 12-millimeter bolt. We can use a 12-millimeter socket on a gun to get that off. And we'll do that same thing on the other side.So, now we can go ahead and start lowering our pole jacks evenly on both sides to lower our axle down. We're gonna be installing our block spacers. Now, note that one side is a little bit smaller than the other side. It's very slight, but the smaller side is gonna be facing the front of the truck. So, now once we have room for our block, we can go ahead and slide that into place. Now you're gonna wanna make sure that the circular tab goes into the hole and then it's gonna be flipped on the top. We'll have that tab up here and a hole up here. We can start to raise it back up, making sure that we line up that hole.And then we're gonna be able to grab our new U-bolts, slide those over the top, and then same on the backside. So, now we can reinstall our factory bottom plate, and we're gonna be using our washers and our locking nuts that came with the kit. And then now we can get our hardware started. And now before we tighten these down, we're gonna go to the other side, do the same thing, and then come back and fully snug everything up. So, now that we have our block installed and our U-bolts with our hardware at the bottom, we can go ahead and start to raise our axle tubes back up.Now, you're gonna wanna make sure that that little silver pin slides into the hole. You might have to do some fine-tuning with wiggling with the axle to get it in. So, raise it up, make sure everything's lined up how it should be, and then we can start to tighten our hardware. So, now when we tighten these nuts down, we're gonna want to do it similar to how we do lug nuts in an X pattern so we apply equal pressure. So, we'll go here, here, here, here. And then as we're tightening them down, we're gonna want to watch up top and make sure everything's staying aligned how it should be. This is gonna be a 22-millimeter socket for these new nuts.And now you can see as we're tightening them down, this gap's closing, which means everything's lining up and seating properly. So, we can finish tightening these down. And then now we can do that same thing on the other side. As we tighten up the other side, I just wanted to make a note to make sure that your U-bolts are inside of this hat. It has little hooks on the side, so it's gonna go right in between here and the hooks.Now once we have the nuts on our U-bolts tightened down, Rough Country recommends that you torque them to 75 to 90 foot-pounds. So, I've got a torque wrench out with a 22-millimeter socket and we're gonna tighten these down. And we'll just tighten until you hear the click. All right. And then now we can do the same thing on the other side.So, now we can assemble our strut and get it installed. So, we're gonna take a metal plate, put it on the bottom, and then one of our bushings, and then we can slide that through our top hole, and we'll have another bushing, another plate, and our nut. So, now we can go ahead and compress our strut and get it into our bottom mounting location and then get our bolt put through. And then we'll get our washer and our nut on the other side. So, now we can take our 17-millimeter wrench on our bolt head side and our 17-millimeter socket on our nut side and tighten that down.So, now we can come back up top and tighten down our 14-millimeter nut. I'm gonna be using a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench for this. And then we can repeat that same process on the other side. Now we can go ahead and reinstall our e-brake cable bracket, and then we'll tighten that up with a 12-millimeter socket. And now we can do that same thing on the other side.So, now lastly, we can go back and put our tires back on. Now, since we're on a lift, I'm gonna be using a tire lift to put these on. Now we can get our lug nuts on. And now we can grab our 21-millimeter socket to tighten these down. And then next, you're gonna want to torque these down to factory spec and repeat the same process for our other three wheels.So, that'll wrap up this review and install of the Rough Country 3-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks and Red Spacers for your 2005 and newer Tacomas with six lugs. Thank you for watching. And for all things Tacoma, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Suspension Lift Kit
      • Three Inches of Lift
      • Allows for 32-Inch Tires
      • Premium N3 Shocks
      • Red Spacers
      • Strut Extensions
      • Two-Inch Rear Lift Blocks
      • U-Bolts
      • Fairly Easy Installation
      • Lifetime Warranty
      • Fits 2005-2023 6-Lug Tacomas

      Description

      Suspension Lift Kit. Take your Tacoma to new levels with this Rough Country 3-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks and Red Spacers. You can run 32-inch tires and easily return things back to stock with little trouble.

      Shocks. The N3 shocks are nitrogen-charged with a leak-proof piston seal. With a massive 1-3/8-inch bore, you get a smooth factory-like ride.

      Other Contents. This kit includes: durable, red strut spacers; 2-inch fabricated rear blocks and U-bolts; and strut extensions.

      Installation. Some drilling is required, but this installation is relatively easy. It should take about 4 hours.

      Warranty. There is a lifetime warranty on this kit, but only a 3-year warranty on the shocks.

      Application. This Rough Country 3-Inch Suspension Lift Kit with Premium N3 Shocks and Red Spacers fit 2005-2023 6-Lug Tacomas.

      Fitment:

      Details

      Rough Country 74530RED

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Rear Shocks
      • (2) Spacers
      • (2) Rear Lift Blocks
      • U-Bolts
      • Installation Hardware
      4.7

      Customer Reviews (500+)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Tacoma

        • 2.7L I4 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 23
        • 3.5L V6 - 23
        • 4.0L V6 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15