(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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Hey guys, Adam here with extremeterrain.com. And today, we're taking a closer look at the Mammoth 2.5-inch Front Leveling Kit, for all '07 and newer Tundras. You should be checking this out if you're looking for one of three things, if you're looking to level out your truck's appearance, raising the front end to match the rear stance, if you're looking to fit larger wheels and tires comfortably up to 33 inches, and if you're looking to gain additional ground clearance at the front end to help you get over some of the smaller obstacles.Let's start there. Getting over the smaller obstacles can be relatively difficult with a full-size truck. The Tundra here is sitting pretty low to the ground at the front end, especially if you have a front lip or a front air dam down there. Now, adding 2.5 inches, like this kit here provides isn't a ton of additional front-end space, but it is enough to get you over some of the smaller on-end off-road obstacles that you may have otherwise come in contact with on a stock suspension.Additionally, you should be checking this out if you're looking to fit larger wheels and tires on your truck up to 33 inches. Now we know fitting larger wheels and tires on the Tacomas and the Tundras can prove to be very difficult. The Tundras don't leave you a lot of room up front without going with some of the larger leveling kits like 4 to 6 inches to fit those larger wheels and tires.However, 2.5 inches is just enough to get a little bit of extra tire in there up to 33 inches without any rubbing at full lock. Now, obviously, if you have some aggressive offset or a really wide rim and tire, you may get some slight rubbing at full turn when you're at full lock, but nonetheless, it is completely drivable. And I'm going to show you guys that clearance here on our truck behind me.Some people don't really like the look of the factory rake, so you might want to level things out. Two and a half inches is just enough to get rid of some of that factory rake. It may not completely level things out, 3 inches is about the right height to completely level out that stance, but 2.5 inches will reduce the factory rake to make it less obvious, evening out that stance from front and rear.Now the nice thing about this kit here is it's extremely affordable. Leveling kits are some of the most affordable, most impactful mods you can do. This guy here comes in right around 80 bucks for the set of two for the front end. Now it is just a front leveling kit. If you're not really interested in lifting the entire truck or getting more into breaking the bank, or if you're not really looking to do all that installation, this is a pretty simple job that you can do upfront, and I'll walk you through that install in just a minute.The kit here out of the box is made from a CNC machined billet aluminum with a black anodized finish to help with corrosion and oxidation resistance. Now, this here measures in physically at 1.5 inches of physical spacer. Now this, in combination with the changes in suspension geometry and spring compression, will result in a final lift height at the front end of 2.5 inches. So even though the physical spacer doesn't measure 2.5 inches does not mean the final lift height won't be 2.5. The measurement here is just a little bit less than the final height to account for changes in the suspension geometry and spring compression like I said.Install, guys, I'm gonna give this two out of three wrenches on our difficulty meter. You can tackle this in the driveway at home. It'll take you about three, maybe four hours from start to finish, depending on your personal experience. It's not going to require a spring compressor or any special tools like that, but it will test the toolbox. You want to have a pretty good amount of hand tools on deck. Air tools definitely go a long way to help out the install. I'm going to show you guys the install using air tools myself. So if you have an air compressor, definitely worth breaking that out to get a little bit more torque.Keep in mind at the end, you will need an alignment for your truck. Make sure you're looking at the proper torque specs for your year, make, and model, as it can change per year. So look them up and torque down your bolts. With that said, I'm going to walk you through it. Let's get started. Tools used in the install include an air impact gun, cordless impact, a ratchet, extension, 14, 16, 17, 19, 22, and 15/16 sockets, 16 being a short socket. Universal swivel socket is recommended there. Flat-head screwdriver, a hammer, 15/16 wrench, 19 and 22-millimeter wrenches, and not on the table is a floor jack and a pry bar.All right, first step, of course, is to get your wheel out of the way. Once the wheel is out of the way and the vehicle is up and supported, we're going to start off by removing this bolt, this 19-millimeter bolt holding the factory sway bar end link to the actual lower control arm. So grab your knife and socket. I'm using an impact. Let's get it off.All right. So next I put a pole jack under our lower control arm just to jack it up and take some of that pressure off. All right. She's been a little stubborn, so I'm actually gonna switch it up. I'm gonna put my impact gun on the nut side to break it loose, and then we'll hammer it out. Next up, once you get the nut off the other side, you want to hammer this guy out. I'm gonna use a screwdriver to hammer it from the other side just like a hammer and chisel. It's under a little bit of tension and pressure. So it might take a little while, but want to get this guy out.Next up, we're gonna loosen but not remove the two lower control arm bolts holding it to the frame. These are 15/16, so they're pretty big. Grab a 15/16 wrench and deep socket, and loosen that guy up. There you go. Want to make sure it's still got some threads in there. Do the same thing on the other side. All right, again, the same thing on the other side. I'm gonna loosen up from the inside. Because we're not completely removing it, I'm just going to thread that nut back on to make sure that it's secured in place. Now we can move on.Next up, we're gonna remove the two 22-millimeter bolts holding the factory lower control arm to the hub. There's one on each side of the hub, so you can see this one here. Directly on the other side, there's the other one. Grab your socket and remove them. All right. You'll see the lower control arm pops down just a little bit. Next up, we're at the top of our strut tower. There are four nuts we have to get off. They're 14 millimeters. We have one here, two, in the opposite corners, there are three and four.I'm gonna start in the back and then work my way up here. Grab a 14 deep socket, I'm gonna use a 1/4-inch ratchet to get these guys off. All right. There's one. Do that for the rest of them. All right. The struts are loose. We just have to pry it out of place. Grab a pry bar just to make life a little easier. And if you need to, you can kind of move this hub out of the way just like that just a little bit. I'm gonna pry out from the bottom to make life a little easier. All right. It can be a tricky process. Also, prying down on the lower control arm may help as well. All right. From there, lift it up. All right. Set your factory strut aside.All right. Next step, we're going to install our spacer onto our factory strut here from the driver side on our table. Now, it really only comes on one way. So you just want to line up these factory studs and drop it in place here. Now, you want to make sure it seats evenly. And if it's a little rocky, you might want to pull this off and just clean off the surface area there. Ours is sitting pretty good. Take the factory 14-millimeter nuts, and you're going to thread these guys on. What I like to do is just thread them on first, all four of them by hand, just to make sure that they all fit, and everything is spaced out evenly. I'm just gonna thread these guys on. All right. Thread this guy on here. I'm just gonna rotate this a little bit and do the same thing for the last one. Once you have all four of the nuts on, grab a 14-millimeter deep socket. I'm gonna use this on my impact gun and tighten them down. All right. Once all four are in place, let's bring it back over to the truck and start on the install there.Next step, we're gonna fit our strut back into the truck. If you look at the top of the strut on that spacer, there's a little dot at the top, that's gonna tell you which side faces forward. So once you identify that, let's squeeze this guy back in. All right. Once you feed this guy up, bring it up to the top of that truck tower. And it is going to be hard to hold up here, but you want to grab one of the bolts included in the kit. And you're gonna put it through the top and tighten it down. And once have one bolt in, you want to do that for all four. Just thread them all in a little bit so you know it's aligned properly.Now our factory lower strut bolt, the threads got a little bit messed up on the way out, so we're replacing it here. I've got a perfect replacement, so it's just going to look a little bit newer than yours. We're going to put that right back through the factory bottom of the struck. Pop that through, just like that. If you need to, you can use a hammer to tap it all the way through. I'm gonna put the nut on the other side and let's tighten it down with a 15/16. Yours is probably a 22.All right. Once you have that in place, grab your wrench and your socket and plug it in down. Next up, we're gonna do our lower control arm to hub bolts, the two 22-millimeters. Keep in mind, guys, we're using a floor jack for this to help jack the lower control arm up far enough, so that this hub matches this hub. Now, this bracket here I've already got the bolt on the other side. That's something you guys aren't gonna be able to see, but I can show you guys what it looks like here.Now if you need to, you may want to grab a screwdriver or something to help manipulate that bracket to get it to line up, so the bolt goes in straight and can line up to the threads on the hub. Once you have that on, grab your 22 socket and tighten down both of those bolts. That's one. Just hit the other side. Next up, you want to make sure that your sway bar end link is lined up. If it isn't, you can use a pry bar to help get it into place. Grab your bolt and put it through, and again, you may need to hammer it in. Just tap it in to get it to sit. Grab your socket and tighten it down. Next, let's tighten down our lower control arm bolts. Same thing on the other side.Next up, let's tighten down the top four bolts on our strut tower. Grab a 16 socket, tighten those guys down. Repeat that for the other three. Perfect. At this point, go back and tighten down all your bolts, torque them down to your factory spec per your year, make, and model, put your wheels back on, and you're good to go.That's gonna wrap this one up, guys. We just took a look at the Mammoth 2.5-inch Front Levelling Kit, fitting all 2007 and newer Tundras. Get yours right here at extremeterrain.com.
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(approx) 3 Hours
Light to Moderate mechanical skill required.
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