ExtremeTerrain is proud to offer FREE SHIPPING on any order over $75!
Free 2-3 Day Delivery on most items, see Product Page for details.
Free Shipping Offers are for Standard Ground Delivery Service and are only valid for shipping addresses within the 48 contiguous United States. Truck freight and oversize charges still apply unless otherwise noted, and can only be shipped to the lower 48 States. Rough Country items are not included in Free Shipping offers. Tires and Wheel and Tire Kits do not qualify for free shipping.
Shipping to Alaska and Hawaii will require an additional charge.
Merideth: Hey, guys. So, today we're checking out the RedRock Solid Steel Rear Bumper with the LED Lighting, fitting all 2018 and newer JL Wranglers. So, if you're in search of a super affordable, heavy-duty rear bumper with some added features, this is going to be a great choice for a rear bumper. Now, this will be great for the JL owner who wants to add some extra function to the rear end, but doesn't need or want the attached tire carrier that some options may include. Now, this is going to include a super-durable construction, made with 3/16-inch steel plating. So, if you're looking for that added off-road protection, or even extra protection while you're driving on the street, this is going to get the job done. Not to mention, it's gonna have a nice textured black powder coat finish on top, that's going to resist any rusting on the metal or the steel underneath, but it's also gonna do a really good job at matching any other textured black accessories or off-road accessories that you have on your JL, and really adding more of an off-road look.Now, this bumper will include some recovery points, which is also great if you wanna take your JL off-road and you're in search of a rear bumper that is going to be functional in those circumstances. Now, the bumper will come with shackle mounts on either side, and it's gonna come with two D-rings included in the kit, which will also have isolators. And I actually really like that, considering that it's not really common for the isolators to be included in the kit. So, it just adds that much more functionality, making sure that they're not bouncing off of this metal here, and keeping it pretty quiet on the back end.Now, speaking of recovery, this will also have a 2-inch hitch receiver on the bottom of the bumper, that's capable of being a recovery point, but it's also great if you wanna add some hitch-mounted accessories, like bikes or extra cargo for camping or any adventure that you're taking your Jeep on. Now, the one thing that I do really like here is the lighting that's included in the bumper. So, if you want any additional lighting on the back end of your Wrangler, for some better visibility while you're backing up, this bumper is going to accommodate that by including two 18-watt flush LED spotlights. I would like to mention that this kit will include a wiring harness with an independent switch, to make the wiring straightforward, as well as a new license plate bracket and license plate lighting.Now, as far as the price goes, this will come in at roughly $525. Now, like I said before, because you're not getting a tire carrier with this option, that's going to save you a ton on price. So, if you don't necessarily need one, or you wanna go with a tub-mounted tire carrier or a tailgate-mounted tire carrier in the future, instead of a bumper-mounted one, that is going to save you a little bit of cash there. Not to mention, if you want that rear end visibility, not all options for rear bumpers are going to come with lighting integrated in the kit, as to where this one will. Now, again, I think if you're looking to keep it pretty budget-friendly, you want a lot of off-road style, solid protection, and a bunch of function when it comes to a rear bumper, then this is gonna be an awesome pick.Now, as far as install's concerned, I'm gonna give this a one out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter, taking you about two hours to get the job done with some basic hand tools. Now, one thing I will say is that you might want an extra set of hands on hand, just to help you lift the bumper and get it mounted up. It is pretty heavy, so that's really the only extra thing that you'll need there. But basic hand tools is gonna get the job done. And one of our installers here is actually gonna show you how to get this installed on your JL at home, step-by-step. So, that wraps it up for my review. Let's go ahead and get into the install.Man 1: The tools you're gonna need for this installation include a half-inch impact gun, ratchets, electric and regular, 4-millimeter hex head socket, a T40 Torx socket, an 18-millimeter shallow socket, 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 16, 18, 19, and 21-millimeter sockets, 10-millimeter and 18-millimeter wrenches, flat and Phillips head screwdrivers, diagonal cutters, trim removal tool and a pop clip removal tool.How's it going, everyone? Today, we have a rear bumper we're gonna install on our JL Wrangler. Now, we did previously get the uninstall footage. It is on a different Jeep Wrangler, but it is a JL four-door model, so the process will be exactly the same. Once we show you that, I'll be back to walk you through the install step by step.Man 2: So, the first thing we're gonna do, we're gonna start on the end. We have these little plastic splash guards we need to take off. There's gonna be three screws total. I'm gonna do this outer one first, and you'll need an 8-millimeter socket to get that screw out. So then, you're gonna have two on the inside, right here. Same thing, 8-millimeter socket. We'll pull those out, and we can get this cover off. So next, we're gonna take off this bracket that was underneath of that plastic section. You're gonna have four bolts total. You're gonna have two going into the bumper right here, and you're gonna have two on the other end, that go into the frame. We're gonna start with these two right here, and use a 16 millimeter socket to get those out. So, we're gonna go on the other side and get these bolts out of the frame section. Once you get that last bolt ready to come out, you wanna put a hand on this bracket, because it's ready to come off. So, then we're gonna hop on over to the other side and do that same exact thing.So, we're gonna stay on that same side. Next we have to do, we have to get our tow hook off. So, we have two bolts on the side and we have one bolt down here. This bottom one's gonna be a 21-millimeter, and these two side ones, we're gonna use a 19-millimeter socket. Let's start with this bottom one first and get that out. And while we're over here, we're gonna unplug our license plate light as well. So, that's gonna be this little plug right here. You can pull that off of here. And then on this front side, we're gonna have this little tab that we need to press in. So, you have this gray locking tab we'll need to press up. Once you get that up, wanna press down on that gray tab once it's out and up, and that's gonna allow us to unplug that.So, we're gonna go over to the other side. Now, as you see, we don't have a tow hook here, so we don't need to take out this bottom bolt. However, we do need to take out these two side bolts, so we're gonna use that same 19-millimeter to get those out. So, then we're gonna move to the middle, right in the middle, in front of the muffler right here, on the spring section, you're gonna have these two bolts. We need to get those out as well. These are gonna be 19s, just like the side of those tow hooks. We're gonna go ahead and thread these out.So, now that we have all that hardware removed, we can go ahead and get our bumper off. It's relatively light. It's just made of plastic, so you probably do it yourself. I am gonna open the tailgate, just to give me a little more room, and get our spare tire away from our bumper.Man 1: With the factory bumper removed, we're actually gonna start right here on our workbench, because there is one thing we have to take off of here in order to transfer it over to our new bumper, and that is the tag light harness here. So, we're gonna use our trim removal tool, and remove the several Christmas tree clips that are here, and get this out, and then we can hook it onto our new bumper. All right. So, keep this safe, because we're gonna reuse it. Now we can get our bumper off the table, and get our aftermarket bumper up here for the preparation.To begin the preparation for our bumper, we're gonna start by installing the brackets on our reverse lights here. So, grab the four U-brackets that come in the kit, along with these teeny little Phillips head bolts and a number two Phillips head screwdriver. And we can mount these brackets right here. All right, when we're mounting these brackets, make sure they're oriented like this, so that we are able to mount them to the bumper when it's time. There's a little, like, nub here that the bracket's gonna sit on top of. Then, gonna grab one of these teeny little bolts. A little tricky. If you got a magnetic screwdriver, it might make it a little easier.Gonna go through the bracket and into the plastic housing. And I do wanna call out, it's plastic. Because we're screwing our metal bolt into plastic, you just wanna be a little gentle with it, as to not crack the housing. Okay. And then we're gonna do two on each light. So, the other one goes on the other side. Same process. Might be easiest to get the bolt on the screwdriver first, just because we're working with such small hardware. Just take your time here. We're gonna figure it out. Put it through the bracket first, then get your screwdriver on it. There we go. All right. And we're gonna do the other light the exact same way. All right. Once you have the brackets on, we can get those outta the way for now, and get these two brackets, which we're now gonna mount into our bumper. And then the lights will go through the back of the bumper and mount to these.So next, we're mounting these plastic brackets here, and they're gonna go right here on our bumper on each side. And we're gonna be mounting these up using all the silver hardware here that comes included with the kit. And we also need a 10-millimeter wrench. And the kit does come with a Allen key here. I'm gonna be using my own socket, Allen socket, and it's a number four, or a 4-millimeter hex head socket. So, those are the two tools we're gonna need. And how this is gonna go together is we're gonna line it up with the holes, and then we're gonna take a bolt and a flat washer, putting it through...let's see, lot of holes...through the front like this. And then, the locking nut will go on the back. We just wanna make sure that we leave these two holes here open, and these two holes over here, because that's where our lights will be mounting on each side.So, I'm just gonna get two of these bolts and nuts started, just so it stays in place. And then I'll put the rest of the hardware in. All right. So, we're using our 4-millimeter on the button head bolt here, and the 10-millimeter on the locking nut. So, again, I do wanna mention that, you know, these brackets are plastic, so just be careful. Don't tighten them down too much, just snug enough so it stays in place. All right. Now that you have the bracket like such, with those bolts and nuts on, we can now mount our reverse light. So, this is gonna go in from the back, and we're gonna line up the holes with the brackets that we installed on the light, and put the same hardware through. I'm gonna alternate, tighten these bolts down, just to make sure that the light goes in square, and doesn't take too much pressure on the housing of it. All right. So, that's the installation process for this side. And for the light on the other side, you're just gonna repeat the same exact step.We're back at the Wrangler now, and we're getting ready to mount up our bumper. First thing we have to do is grab this bracket out of our kit, and we're gonna place this right here. And what it does is just adds a couple of threaded nuts here, welded nuts onto the bracket. The other side already has welded nuts. So, this just adds a couple more, for more support. So, we're simply just gonna slide this in to the frame like so, line up the holes, and our bumper will mount there. So, let's grab somebody at this point, because the bumper is pretty heavy. So, get a friend to help you line up the bumper, and then we'll put some bolts through.We're ready to hang our bumper up now, so at this point, you wanna grab six of these bolts here from your kit, each with a locking washer and flat washer. Get those ready. And you also wanna grab a friend, because the bumper is really heavy. So, once you and your friend line up the bumper with the holes here, there's two bolt holes here on each side that we're gonna start by hand. And then there's also two underneath on the other side. So, prep your bolts, get your friend, line them up, and then we'll get the bolts started.All right, good. All right. Thanks, Mark. So, once you have those four bolts in, we're now gonna just lift it up to give you a better view and show you the other two bolts that are gonna go in place. All right. Now we're underneath our Jeep here, on the passenger side. And if you look right above the tailpipe here, you'll notice these two bolts are the ones that we just installed by hand. And if you look underneath that, here's the other two holes where our bolt's gonna go. So, let's put those in by hand as well. And these are installing into that bracket that we installed earlier into the frame. So just make sure that that's lined up, and you'll definitely be able to feel them threading in. Once that's all done, everything's lined up, we can go ahead and grab our 21-millimeter socket, and tighten everything down. So, I like to line it up too, as I'm doing it, so I'm just keeping it high and tight, to put pressure onto the bottom, to push it up, make sure it's lined up nicely. All right. Now we'll hit the other two on the other side.All right. At this time, we're gonna go ahead and install our receiver hitch reinforcement bracket, and this is gonna go behind the frame here. And our bolts, grab four of those, each with a locking washer and a flat washer, these bolts are gonna go through, behind here, through our bumper, through the frame, through the bracket, and then we're gonna put a flat washer and a nut on the other side. To tighten these down, we're gonna need an 18-millimeter socket and an 18-millimeter wrench.All right. We're underneath our Wrangler again, and if you look right here at the receiver hitch, and go inside here is where the holes are, and I'm actually gonna put the bolts through first, and then line the bracket up behind there with the bolts. So, and we're going from the driver's side here, and then across, to the passenger side. Now I'm gonna line my bracket up, and put on the other hardware behind. And now we wanna put the flat washer and the nut on. Now that we have everything lined up and threaded in place, gonna go ahead and grab our 18-millimeter wrench and our 18-millimeter socket, with a ratchet instead of a gun, for clearance. And we can start tightening all these down.It's time to start wiring up our lights. So, grab your harness outta your kit, and we're gonna connect these two ends to the connectors on our lights. Then we're gonna unravel this and start routing it along the frame until we reach the engine bay. And then we're gonna connect this up to the battery, and route the switch into the cabin. All right. So, I'm keeping all the wires above the frame. Like I said, we're gonna be routing this along the frame, so once you go above here, you can pull the slack through, and then we'll continue on, kind of underneath the car, and start zip-tying along your driver's side frame. Also, it's important to note that as you're routing this, just make sure, you know, when you're finished up, that everything is routed away from anything that could be moving, a moving part, a hot part, or a sharp part. So, there's wire harnesses that are secured to the frame that you can zip-tie to. So that's what I'm using right now, right along the frame here. So, I'm actually gonna take it behind the frame bolts here. So, instead of pulling it through there, you could leave it behind. Again, completely up to you.All right. Now I'm just gonna continue along the top, like so. All right. So, I found another spot where you can zip-tie. So, I'm just gonna take my wires here and pull them tight, put a zip tie through the body here, and then fasten them up against the body. All right. And now we're at the front of the frame. So, at this point, we're gonna go ahead and route them up through the fender well, and then up into the engine bay. Now, once you reach the front of your frame rail, you'll come to the fender here, and you'll probably have a fender liner. Ours is already removed. So, what you're gonna have to do is just kind of maybe take out a couple push clips here, just so you can lift up the fender liner a little bit, and then you'll be able to access the engine bay directly from there. So that's what we're gonna do now, is just run all the wire up into the engine bay, and then we'll grab it from the top. When you do get back here, just make sure you're routing it, you know, on the proper side of all these lines and everything that's in here. All right. That should be good for now. So what we're gonna do is drop the Jeep down, pop open the hood, and grab the rest from the top.All right. And again, just be mindful of all the lines and hoses as you're pulling this up through the engine bay. There you go. All right. Now that I got it free, I'm actually gonna go under this coolant hose as well. And I'm gonna start routing this along the top of the engine bay here, and then over to the battery. All right. Gonna have to unravel our spaghetti here a bit, but, while I'm here, does look like there's a couple more places to zip-tie, one being on that bracket. Let me see if that's good. So, we can zip-tie to this bracket right here. And then also on that plastic trim piece over there. So I'm gonna grab a couple zip ties, do that, and then we'll connect to the battery.All right. Now that we've reached the battery, we're gonna go ahead and connect our wires, our red, positive, black, negative, starting with the positive. So, if we pull up the protective sleeve here, we reveal some terminals. And I'm gonna use this one right here since it's empty, and, to get that nut off using my 12-millimeter socket. Go ahead and tighten that back down. And now we can connect our negative, and I'm gonna use this terminal spot right here. And to remove that nut, I'm gonna use my 10-millimeter socket.All right. At this point, we could test the lights if you want to. It's not a bad idea to do that. Once you know that your lights are good to go at this point, we can go ahead and route our wires back over to the driver's side, so that we can route our switch through the firewall, and mount that in the cabin. Now, as you're routing your wires back over towards the driver's side, in order to get your switch through the firewall, it's a good idea to find a good spot to mount your relay, and secure your fuse somewhere. Now, you can drill in somewhere around here. We're not gonna do that for the purposes of this video, but what I'm gonna do is just kind of lay it along here, along with the fuse, and zip-tie it the place, just to keep it temporarily secure. Now, again, for you at home, probably wanna find a more permanent solution. So, if you have a self-tapping screw, that will work. And typically, you could mount it here, or even on the battery box.All right. Now that we're back over to the driver's side of our Jeep, at this point, you could go through the firewall, as we spoke about before, but there is another way that's just as safe that we can do. So, I'm actually gonna show you that now. We're gonna be routing this way. So, it involves taking this panel off here, and that will give us access to the cabin. So, to do this, you're gonna need a pop removal tool, such as this, and also your T40 socket. All right. So, I'm actually gonna start by removing my switch here. So, this connector is just a push tab style to release. And once you separate it, take your switch, and just put this somewhere safe for now. I'm gonna go ahead and put it in the cabin. Now, we can take our wire, and if you notice here on this foam trim piece here, there's a little slit in it where we can run the wire. So, we're gonna go through that first. And again, just kind of put this outta the way, somewhere safe for now. The next step we're gonna do is remove this panel right here, using our T40 socket. So, there's four bolts holding this panel in place. There's two at the bottom and there's two at the top. These two at the top are longer, so just keep track of those. Make sure that they go back in their appropriate places. So, as you can see, these are elongated compared to the other ones.All right. With all four bolts out, this now just slides directly out. All right. So, we're gonna be routing our wire up through here, and then when we open up the door, there is a plastic trim panel right here that we're gonna remove. So, I'm gonna go inside the cabin to do that right now. All right. So, from inside our Wrangler, and with the door opened up, in the door jamb here, this is the trim piece we're gonna remove. So, there's two Christmas tree clips that we have to take out, using our pop clip removal tool. And then once they're out, we're just gonna move this aside. We're not gonna take it all the way out. We're gonna move this aside, so that we can route our wires through.All right. So, there's just a little bit of foam backing that's kind of adhesive, so if you just pry on it a little bit, it keeps it intact. And like I said, we don't have to remove this. Just get it to the side, like that. And then, at this point, we're actually gonna take our switch end here, and we're gonna route it back towards the engine bay. You just have to kind of route it underneath of the windshield frame here. And this is nice because the wire is in between this rubber piece here, and there's actually some more foam here, so it does keep it protected.All right. Once you have...you can kind of measure the length out here as well. So, we're gonna be mounting our switch right here, right above our other light switch. You can mount it wherever you'd like, but once you have the location, you can go ahead and put this trim back. All right. Now I'm gonna go back into, behind the panel that we removed, and just tie up all the extra slack, and connect our wires together. All right. We're back to where we removed this panel. So, at this point, we can connect the wires together. Like I said, just gather up all the slack, and I'm gonna leave it right here behind the panel. I think it's a good spot for it. Should keep it nice and safe.All right. Now that our wires are secure, we can go ahead and put our panel back in place as well. All right. Remember that the longer bolts go on top. And we're using our T40 socket to tighten these down. One note, before I do tighten these down, this panel here is plastic, again, so just don't go too tight. Just give it a nice snug once it is seated against the panel. All right. So, once you've found a good spot to mount your switch, let's go ahead, flip it over, and you'll see that it's double-sided tape on the back of it. So, all we have to do is remove the protective backing and stick it in place. Just hold it there for, like, 10 to 15 seconds, to make sure it sticks nicely, and you're good to go.We're back on the bumper now, and we're on the driver's side here. We're gonna mount up our license plate bracket. So, grab that, along with the hardware, just two button head bolts, flat washers, and locking nuts. We also need our 4-millimeter hex head socket and a 13-millimeter socket. All right. So, for our bracket, we're just gonna line up the holes in the bracket with the bumper here. We're gonna put our bolts through the top. Then on the bottom, we're putting the flat washer and the nut. We're gonna do one bolt at a time. It's a little tricky. All right. Got that one started. So, go ahead and put the other one through, and then we'll tighten these down. All right. Once we got those started by hand, we're gonna use our 4-millimeter hex head socket on the bolt on top, and then our 10-millimeter socket on the nut on the bottom.With our plate bracket mounted, we can now mount up our lights here, and we're also gonna connect them. And they're plug-and-play here with our factory harness. So, we're just gonna need a 10-millimeter wrench to tighten down these nuts, and also a pair of diagonal cutters, because we're gonna be zip-tying this up. So, the first thing you wanna do is go ahead and loosen these up. Actually, you wanna take off the nut the whole way, but hold it there, so that we can feed the wire through, right here, and then put the hardware back on. And we're just gonna loosely put the nut back on now, because we wanna make sure that once we mount our plate, that the lights are pointing in the right direction. So, same thing for the other side. And you can see right there is the little LED. So, get that in the general location, pointing down.All right. Once you think they are pointed appropriately, let's go ahead and tighten those down with our 10-millimeter wrench. All right. Now we can grab our factory harness that we removed earlier from our factory bumper. And you'll notice that this plug will match up with this one. So, just make sure it's lined up appropriately. See, it only go in one way. There you go. That way. And then, you'll hear a small, audible click, so that you know it's good to go. All right. Now we're gonna route this behind our bumper, and connect it to the other harness. And then we're just gonna wrap up all the excess wire, and zip-tie it together. And I'm actually gonna start by just winding this up into a small ball here. Then I'm gonna make sure that my plug can reach before I zip-tie it together. I just wanna have a general idea of how much I'm gonna be winding up. All right. So, that'll work right there. Before I actually plug it in, I am gonna zip-tie it, just to make it a little easier. Take care of this now. All right. And now we can plug it in to the factory harness.Lastly, for our license plate bracket and these lights, let's go ahead and zip-tie these wires right here in place, and zip-tie them right around the bracket here. Also, don't forget to put your license plate on. And next, we're gonna move on to the tow hook.All right, for the tow hooks, let's just unscrew the bolt here. And we can slide it over our bumper bracket, then put the bolt back through, and screw it down. All right. This is the driver's side, and for the passenger side, we're gonna do the same exact thing.That's gonna wrap up this review and install of the RedRock 4x4 Solid Steel Rear Bumper with LED Lighting, for your '18 and newer Wrangler JL. Thank you for watching. And for all things Wrangler, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.
Ideal For Off-Road Use. Designed to provide your 2018-2023 JL with superior rear end protection, this RedRock 4x4 Solid Steel Rear Bumper will protect your rig in style. This Solid Steel Rear Bumper features two high strength D-Ring mounts with two D-Rings that are rated at 9,500 lb. and a 2 inch receiver for all your Jeep's towing and hauling needs.
Light The Night. The RedRock 4x4 Solid Steel Rear Bumper is the perfect solution for night-time trail runners, as it features two flush mounted 18W LED Spotlights. This auxiliary lighting will ensure complete confidence in any night time adventure.
Heavy Duty Construction. RedRock 4x4 manufactures their Solid Steel Rear Bumper to precise specifications from 3/16-inch thick steel plating for superior strength and rigidity. RedRock 4x4 then completes their Bumpers in a two stage finish using epoxy pre-coating and high-grade textured black powder coating for long lasting durability. The D-Ring mounts are welded both inside and outside for extra strength.
Bolt-on Installation. The RedRock 4x4 Solid Steel Rear Bumper was smartly designed to be a direct bolt-on solution for trail headed Jeeps. As a direct fit replacement, this RedRock 4x4 Rear Bumper uses all factory mounting points and requires no additional cutting, welding, or fabrication for installation.
Application. This RedRock 4x4 Solid Steel Rear Bumper with LED Lighting is designed to fit 2018-2023 Jeep Wrangler JL models.
Extended Warranty. ExtremeTerrain/Turn5 Inc. is proud to offer an optional 12 month extended limited warranty to our customers that purchase an eligible product. The program administrator will replace the cost of the covered part of a period of 12 months after the manufacturers warranty elapses, or from the date of purchase if the manufacturer does not offer a warranty.
Coverage. A Covered Part has failed when it can no longer perform the function for which it was originally designed solely because of its condition and not because of the action or inaction of any non-covered parts. The benefits available under this Limited Warranty are strictly provided to you for the replacement of the Covered Part(s) which fails due to a defect.
Notification Sent Via Email. You will receive notification of your enrollment in the extended product warranty program via email within 24 hours of placing your order. Please save this email for possible future reference.
No Deductibles Required. There are no deductibles required for use of this extended product warranty. If your covered part fails within the extended warranty time frame, simply call the program administrator at 1-844-870-4881 for instructions before any repairs or replacements have begun. Additional contact details and instructions will be included in your confirmation email.
WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - 
