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RedRock Off-Road Flat Fender Flares (07-18 Jeep Wrangler JK)

Item J141992
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      Product Videos

      Jake: Jake here for ExtremeTerrain. And today, I'm taking a look at the Red Rock Off-Road Flat Fender Flares, fitting 2007 to 2018 Jeep Wrangler JKs. If you're looking for additional clearance for larger wheels and tires, or even for off-roading, the new Fender Flares are definitely in your future. And these flat flares from Red Rock combine some cool subtle style with integrated lighting for a statement piece that's equal parts good-looking and affordable.And despite me having only two flares up here on the table, this is a full kit. You've got two each for the front and rear of your JK. I just pulled two out to give you an example of what they're gonna look like. So here we have the front. This one is the rear. Now, unlike your factory flares that drop down toward the ground at the outer edges, kind of rounding them off, these are pretty much flat the whole way across and they sit up a little bit higher. So this means that even if you have already fitted aftermarket wheels and tires, this is gonna decrease the likelihood of any clearance issues that you might encounter.Again, these are gonna sit up a little bit closer to the rest of the body of the rig and a lot higher overall. So it does make for a nice aggressive look. But this extra height is also a boon for long travel suspension. So in addition to larger wheels and tires, if you're running some serious suspension to get that articulation out on the trail, these are gonna give you the clearance to do it nice and comfortably and also reliably. I think the angular styling here works pretty well with the JK's body lines and the pocket-style bolts up top give you a little extra dash of something for the whole look.Now, these also, I think it's worth noting, give you two different options for the big pocket-style bolts that you have up top. You can put black ones in or you can have chrome ones. So choice is yours. You can switch it up if you wanna do something a little bit different. And I always like something that gives you a little extra choice.Stylistically, these seem to walk the line between subtle and aggressive quite well. But the biggest thing is that they're also gonna extend out further than your stock flares too. So with larger wheels and tires, the stance is gonna look nice and even. And they're gonna protect the body of your rig from getting pelted with rocks and debris.Now, included in the kit, you're also gonna find side marker lights as well. I've got a hand and pop them in for this fender here to give you an idea of what they look like. So you get three on each side for the front, two on each side for the rear. So you aren't gonna lose your side markers and it's gonna make your rig safer out on the street or trail.The flares are made from durable, lightweight ABS plastic, so they're going to match any paint color, as well as any other trim you might have on your rig. And that ABS means that they're going to stand up to the elements and resist fading as well, plus, they're also paintable. And unlike metal flares, plastic means that there is absolutely zero chance of rust with these, which is always going to be a good thing.Pricing for the kit comes in at about $350, and that does put these on the more affordable side when it comes to a full set of flares, especially ones that include lighting. So, if you want something that's effective and it's gonna look cool without blowing out your entire budget, these are gonna be a good option for your JK.Installation is gonna get a two out of three and it should take you about two hours to complete the job. Now, there is a little bit of wiring that's necessary to fit all the lights. You're gonna have to run some wires, plug things in, and for the fronts, you're gonna have to run power and ground. There's also a little bit of trimming of the plastic and a fender liner is necessary if you're still running those. You may need to drill a little bit to get these fitted and working as intended as well.However, while that may sound very complicated, none of it is actually very complicated at all and can easily be accomplished by a DIYer at home. In fact, to show you the process now, we're gonna go ahead and hand it over to one of our XT customers.Man: Obviously, we have our drill with our 11/32 drill bit to be able to drill the holes in the front of the fenders there to install the fenders. Flashlight, another flashlight. We'll be able to view things and get a bit a little bit better view of it and obviously, so you guys can see better. Ballpoint hammer, it can be any type of hammer, rubber mallet, small hammer, used to drive in those little white flips to attach the rear fender flares.Got your ratchet wrench here with 10-millimeter socket, 7-millimeter socket, and an extension. Pair of regular old pliers that were used to help hold the rivets on the outside, wire strippers to strip the wire, wire crimpers to crimp together the couplings that I had specifically for this use. We have our clip removal tools that we use to remove the push-in retainer clips on the fenders and the fender flares. This small knife here is just what I use to remove the cover on the adhesive backing on the control boxes for the lights themselves.Marker to mark the fender flares, liners where you're going to be cutting them. Quarter-inch wrench also used on the rivets on the backside to hold the nut while you're tightening it down. Scissors, which I didn't use so much to cut the fender for our liners, I ended up using the sheet metal. Snips a little bit more than the scissors themselves and they're a bit more effective to be able to cut the fender liners screwdriver, Phillips head, two different sizes to be able to put the nuts in on the inside of the fender liners there, a longer one and a shorter one.That is the tools that were used today for the installation of the Red Rock Flat Off-Road Fender Flares. Hello. Today I'm going to be installing Red Rock Off-Road Flat Fender Flares on my 2018 Jeep JKU. First step in the instructions is to go ahead and install the lights and the rivet accessories on the Jeep. It's not on the Jeep, but on the Fender Flares themselves before you begin the actual installation onto the vehicle.The kit comes with LED lights that are connected together. On different forms of harnesses, remove all the lights from the harnesses, take the small silver screws that come in the kit and place them through the holes on the lights like there to prepare them for being put on the fender flares themselves. Now, the manufacturer gives you two different choices of the rivet covers, they give you black, or they give you also a bag full of chrome ones. For the color scheme on my Jeep, I'm actually going to use the black ones and not the chrome ones as I'm going for an all-black work on my vehicle today.We will start with the front fender flares and move on to the back. The front fender flares will have three of the LED lights each, the rear will have two. To attach them to the fender flare, in the same bag with the small silver screws will be included washers and, of course, nuts. Two for each. Now to let everyone know this is my first time doing something like this, so I'll be following through the instructions step by step.And if it's something that I feel like I can accomplish, I'm pretty sure any of you all out there can accomplish this as well. Instructions say it should take about three hours from start to finish on installation. Bear in mind, with these fender flares, you will need to actually cut the inner fender liner in the wheel well itself on the fronts to be able to allow them to fit inside the space that's changed from the new fender flares versus the factory ones.So if you are not interested in cutting your inside fender liners, you can go ahead and purchase separate aftermarket ones through ExtremeTerrain or a manufacturer of your choice to get a different look for it. However, I'm going to go ahead and cut my factory ones, put them in place to be able to retain them and to be able to protect the engine compartment from any splash-back or anything like that. Okay, to fully tighten them down, you need a ratcheting wrench here, socket wrench, 7-millimeter. Just hold the nut with that and tighten it with your Phillips head screwdriver.You don't want to go too tight as you may crack the plastic housing of the LED lights themselves, just enough to be snug and firm to where it won't loosen up from road vibration. The instructions say to attach them. One by one. To the outside there. You'll need to place the screw and the washer through the hole in the back. Start the rivet in place just by manually threading it. Instruction state to go ahead and tighten it down using a pair of pliers and a 1/4-inch wrench. This little guy here.So you want to hold the rivet with the pliers and tighten them back with the wrench. Or vice versa, just hold it with the wrench and tighten the rivet using your pliers. There's a bit of a tight squeeze back in there, so it may take a little bit of pushing with your fingers in there to be able to get it tight and in place. Don't overtighten them as you don't want to strip the inside part of the plastic on the rivets themselves. You will repeat this process for each one of the fender flares.Okay, so the first step in removing the fender flares is to go ahead and disconnect the side marker light here. That is done underneath. I'll go ahead and give you a quick view over here to show you what's going on underneath there. Let me grab my flashlight. So if you look up under there, there's the clip to disconnect it and then the clip holding it to the flare. You want to go ahead and disconnect both of these.Now, some of these have been connected for a while. In the case of my Jeep, it's five years old. And this has never been disconnected, but there's a little pinch piece in there, pinch on it, and then you just pull the plug away. It's connected there. Rivet on the top side. You can use any number of tools that you choose to do it. I'll go ahead and use this tool here, which is a rivet remover tool from a different kit that I've purchased before. There you go. Harness is disconnected. Move it away to the side. So it wants to start with removing the 10-millimeter bolts that are holding the fender flare.Again, use your socket wrench. I'll go ahead and use an extension and my 10-millimeter. One is back here. That's a two other 10-millimeter bolt up on top that I want you to go ahead and remove. There's actually a grand total of four bolts. The last one is on the side up underneath here. Okay, and then there are several small clips that hold the fender liner to the fender flare itself, several along the front of the fender flare itself.Now, I recently installed rock lights, so these are slightly different from factory, so your installation may be slightly different. You'll need either a flathead screwdriver, a tool such as this one, or even a plastic base tool like this to be able to remove those. You should only need those two, one, two, three there to disconnect the foot. There's a couple more of the push-in clips on the inside here. One, two, three, to be able to run a little bit. One more in the corner here. So once you have the end of the fender liner separated, go to peel it back up. There's one more in there as well. Up on the top. I'll give you a quick view of that here. Right there. So there's one, two, three, four, five.Once you have all the clips removed, you should be able to peel the fender liner away from the fender flares themselves. And mine is still partially attached due to the rock light that I've already installed. I'll have to remove that in the process of reattaching the fender flare itself. Now, the instructions say to be able to remove the fender flare, you gotta be able to pull up and out in a single fluid motion. Looks like there is still one more 10-millimeter bolt that the instructions missed. Right up in here. So you gotta be able to remove that one.So that says to start by grabbing the front of the flare here and to peel it up and out at the same time. So that's the same thing for the back, up and out, at the same time. Always got to pay attention here because sometimes instructions can definitely be off. There's still another 10-millimeter bolt hole to get in place right there. Make sure not to lose things. And this should allow it to separate and pull away. Just like that. So the factory retaining clips will not be saved or reused, so they can go ahead and be removed. All right. So, go ahead and put your fender liner loosely back into place. So it's going to want you to cut away certain parts. So this first flap here is what they want you to cut right along the side there. And obviously, towards the back, I don't want this cutaway as well.All right, so what it wants us to do next is loosely attach the new fender flare with the nuts and bolts provided to be able to mark where you're going to go ahead and cut. Now, the hardware it wants is here to use to attach that. Get some larger bolts and some nuts. So, it wants you to use the 15-millimeter flange bolts, which is this one here, washers, and nuts. So you can see the way it's not fitting how I want you to go ahead and cut the inner fender liner. We'll go ahead and do that nowTo make your life easier, you're gonna go ahead and want to draw a line. life easier to be able to understand where to cut. The easiest way to do that, to just market right through here. And the instructions also show you where to cut in an image, but it's not very clear. It says bottom one right here and here. All right, so the first cut will be along this line here. And then as you can see, I've drawn my line here to be able to cut along the wheel well.As you can see, my rock line is in the way. After I cut this section away, I will need to go ahead and reinstall my rock light in a different location. Okay, so I'm going to attempt again using a pair of sheet metal shears. There we go. It gets a little bit better access here. These are gonna work significantly better. All right, now that's completed and cut away. I'm gonna remove that for the rock light. Just pull it out.So I want you the go ahead and attach this using the factory holes that are already existing. There is one hole that they're saying you'll need to drill, and we'll mark that after we get this lined up properly. So some parts of this installation will be made easier by opening up the hood of the vehicle so you can reach down from the top. Okay, so I want you to mark a hole to drill on the larger hole that's in there. Right there.So that hole there is where you go and need to mark on the fender frame itself to be able to drill a single hole for the mounting. Okay, once you've marked it, you'll go ahead and need to re-remove the fender flare. Now, I did see on the reviews for the product that some people went ahead and did not cut the hole. That's fine. That's up to you depending on how you want to do it if you don't want to go ahead and put a permanent hole in your vehicle. Completely understandable. Says to use an 11/32 drill bit. Now, you don't want to go too far, obviously. So when you're drilling through this, be extra careful.Just like that. Now, one thing you'll want to do to be able to avoid rust in the future is to get yourself a small pink pen. Color matching is good. If it doesn't completely match, that's fine too. Go ahead and get that a little bit of paint. Bot the inside and the outside to prevent future resting. All righty, I'm going to go ahead and take a break for a few minutes, allow this paint to dry, and then we will go to complete the installation of the passenger side fender flare. This is a nice paint pen as it has a nice pink pen as has a clear coat applicator that can go on top of the paint that you just put on.Okay. Now we're going to go ahead and reattach the new fender flare. All right, it's now time to go ahead and secure all the nuts that are holding the fender flare in place. Use a wrench. Put these bolts using the 10-millimeter. All right, nice and tight. All right, so the next step, it's going to want you to connect the wiring to the original factory harness. So the harness for flanges have three connectors. Just like one for each individual like the ECF front there, one, two, three, all attached with a rubber band. Go ahead and remove that rubber band. All right, all three clicks in. As you can see, they give me a lot of extra wire here to be able to play with.So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna go ahead and cut the factory wire here. What it does include is these red tabs to be able to tap into the wire. I'm going to go with a more professional-like installation and actually include harness connectors that I will install myself and be able to save the factory clip to be able to be reinstalled in the future if I want to go ahead and take these back off. So I purchased these connectors off of Amazon.It would clip together real nice, just like a factory connection. Make your installation look a lot more professional. However, you don't have to do this, you can use the red clips included with the hardware and to the kit. Use your clipper here and your wire stripper there. All right, again, I'm going to cut off enough to be able to reuse the factory dongle if I need to use it in the future. And same thing here. Strip the wires. So with this here, you're going to want to hook the red one up to the green and white wire. And the black one to the black. Nice and tight. There you go. Same thing for here. Same thing for here.Now same as before. You want the white to the red and the black to the black. Make sure everything is tight. And go ahead and connect that. What I'm going to go ahead and do before proceeding is to go ahead and test these lights. Make sure that the connections are proper like and that they turn on. Back to the box comes with an adhesive proper like it strip here, you just got to peel the plastic off and attach it somewhere out of the way. Tuck all that excess wire in back behind there. Okay, so how the instructions call for reattaching the fenders is with these small black screws.Now that the fender wheel cover is reattached, we'll start fishing any excess wire you have into the cavity there. It also includes sticky clips just be able to reattach it. Since we are moving on to the next step, I'm going to go ahead and turn the Jeep around. So for this one here, the first two things it wants us to do is to remove the top cover clips, the push clips, the one here, and one over here. I'm going to go ahead and use the tool that I've been using before. All right, now, to remove the push clips from the fender liner itself. Based on this, there's one here, back here, right here, and right here for a total of four.I should have listened to everything right up. And just like the rear one, with the front ones, I want you to go ahead and pull up and away, starting from the inside working your way to the outside. All right, that removes everything including the inner fender liner. And again, I have rock lights installed, so I will need to go ahead and remove those initially and I'm going to proceed further with the installation. Just like before, remove the factory retaining clips.All right, so what I want you to do now is to go ahead and separate the liner from the fender well itself or from the fender flare itself. We'll see reattached liner and market to cut it just like the front. Proceed to the next step of the installation, which is putting the wheel well cover back into place. Just loosely reinstall the clips, the push clips here just to be able to hold the bad boy in place. All right, so you're your marker and just trace along the fender itself. Hold this back out and proceed to cut.All right, so the next step is to install plastic screw inserts into the holes because they will not be accessible by the bolts. There's no way to get your hands in there to be able to install it. Instructions say there's going to be eight of them on each side. One, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10. So we'll see which ones the instructions say to install. Says to skip the top middle two. So the four on each side. Give it a light tap with a hammer if you can't push it in. And again, on this side, start at the bottom outside.So one and two are skipped. So we go one. And the fourth. So the center will still be able to use the black bolts that we were using earlier. And that's what the instructions indicate to use to go ahead and attach it. Okay so, next, it wants us to go ahead and align the fender flare with the plastic screw inserts that we've installed. We will install them with the long black screws. It calls them the number 8 by 10-millimeter and then again with the flat washers that we've been using with the black bolts.Moving on to the back. Get the other nut. Start with the bottom. So make sure it's all aligned and good to go. Then we can go ahead and tighten down all of this hardware. It's good, feels good. Get the two 10-millimeter nuts on top. Use the ratchet and socket wrench to cinch those down. All right. So now it's time to do the wiring on the harness. Again, this has an adhesive on it just like the front side did. Remove the little blue piece there that covers the adhesive and then attach it in a location that's suitable for your installation and out of the way. Remain it here. I'm gonna bring it around and underneath, and attach it to the back of the fender flare itself like so.So for this connection, I'm actually going to use the wire splicers provided by the manufacturer to cut tie-ins since I'm not going to be cutting off the factory dongle, but rather displacing in black to black and then the white one to, they say the orange white on the back here. So if you look the wiring, you got a orange-white. You got a yellow light, you got a green light, and a black. It says to go with the orange.Go ahead and cut off this dongle here since we're not going to be using it. Feed the white wire into the connector. Use your pliers. Go ahead and push down the clip. Flip the cover and compress it together again. All right. And I want you to put black to black using these same connectors. Again, make sure your wires are seated in the proper spot. Proceed to close the crib. Flip the cover. One more in lock it in. All right, so that's wired in. We should be able to test that now and see if it works. Perfect.So you can see the LED lights are both on and bright, so the connection is exactly as it should be. Get that extra water tipped up and away. Soon to be protected by the reinstalled wheel well cover itself. All right, so fender flare aligned. Get's reinstalled. In place. So instead of retaining the factory clips, they want you to use a little bit more of a permanent installation and use the black bolts that were previously provided. Washer and the nut.All right, also says to use two of the factory push clips on the lower inner ones here. So that's one, and two. That's good. All right. Alright. Now it's time to go ahead and cinch everything down. In this case, it's only two 10-millimeter bolts. Okay, now we'll go ahead and repeat the process with the other side. All right, so getting this one into the wiring harness is going to be a little bit more difficult as it's not exposed nicely like the previous one is, it's actually in the body. So what we'll need to do here now is to go ahead and disconnect the rear tail light here and pull it away to be able to gain access to the wires in the parking light. Easy to remove this. It's just tough to get the screws. Out and away.Remove the plastic cover and expose the wiring. Back here we got white and gray, white and purple, white yellow and black. I know the white and gray is reverse. Black is obviously your ground, so we just need to figure out if it's purple or yellow by looking at the instructions here. Looks like we're going with the purple. So now what we need to do is we're gonna get our wires fished into here. After cutting off this, don't go again. The unnecessary one. There is a little pot right there for you to push them right on. Just reach in, grab, and complete. So just like before, we're going to use the red clips and our pliers to be able to pinch it all together. So we'll find that purple wire there. We'll go with the purple wire. And the white wire. Verify your connection. Flip the cover. Press it tight.And just like before, we will go ahead and test it to make sure that it did it properly. As you can see, both flights are lit, installation is correct, and we can go ahead and reinstall the tail light. All right, and we will go ahead and install the fender liner and that will complete the installation of this.jake: That's going to wrap it up here for our review and install of the Red Rock Off-Road Flat Fender Flares, fitting 2007 to 2018 Wrangler JKs. Thanks so much for watching, and as always, for all things Jeep, be sure to keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Flat Style Fender Flares
      • Provides Additional Tire Coverage
      • Front Fender Tire Coverage is 7.25-inches
      • Rear Fender Tire Coverage is 5.50-inches
      • Extra Protection from Road and Trail Debris
      • Side Marker Lights Included
      • Automotive Grade ABS Plastic Construction
      • UV Treated Matte Black Finish
      • Paintable - Install As Is or Paint To Match
      • Straight Forward Installation - Minor Drilling and Wiring Required
      • Sold as a Set of (4) Fender Flares
      • Fits 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK Models

      Description

      Protection and Style. Add extra protection to your 2007-2018 JK Wrangler, while improving its style, with a set of RedRock Off-Road Flat Fender Flares. Featuring a flat fender design, these Flares will open up your Wrangler's wheel wells for a more aggressive off-road appearance. These Flat Flares not only provide additional tire coverage (7.25-inch front, 5.5-inch rear) to protect your rig from flying debris, but they also give you a little extra room when upgrading to a beefier set of tires.

      Durable Construction.RedRock 4x4 manufactures their Off-Road Flat Style Fender Flares from an OEM quality acrylonitrile butadiene styrene (ABS) plastic material. ABS is known for its light weight, superior durability and impact resistance making it the ideal material for use on and off road. RedRock 4x4 then completes their Fender Flares in a matte black finish that matches your Wrangler's existing factory trim.

      Paintable Matte Black Finish. Completed in a matte black finish straight out of the box, these RedRock 4x4 Off-Road Flat Fender Flares can be installed as is for a great aggressive look. However, if you're not a fan of the black finish, these Fender Flares can be painted to match your Jeep's exterior color scheme, the choice is up to you.

      Bolt-on Installation. RedRock 4x4's Off-Road Flat Fender Flares were designed to be a direct bolt-on upgrade using just basic hand tools. Please note that minor cutting and drilling will be required for installation. Installation of the side marker lights will require some minor wiring for operation.

      Application. These RedRock 4x4 Off-Road Flat Fender Flares are designed to fit 2007-2018 Jeep Wrangler JK models. Sold as a set of four.

      Fitment:

      RedRock J141992

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (2) Front Fender Flares
      • (2) Rear Fender Flares
      • (4) ScotchLocks
      • (22) M4 Flat Washers
      • (56) #8x10mm Phillips Screws
      • (30) #8x27mm Phillips Screws
      • (30) M6x1.00 x 15mm Bolts
      • (92) M6 Flat Washers 
      • (16) #8x15mm Phillips Screws
      • (21)M4 x 0.7 Nuts
      • (21) M4 x 0.7 x 12mm Bolts
      • (30) M6 Nuts
      • (12) M8 Flat Washers
      • (8) M8 Small Washers 
      • (16) Plastic Screw Inserts
      • (56) Black Screw Caps
      • (56) Chrome Screw Caps
      • (4) Light Modules
      • (6) LED Fender Lights
      3.7

      Customer Reviews (9)

        Brand Image

        Reviews of RedRock Exterior products have an average rating of 4.6 out of 5

          Questions & Answers

          10 More Questions