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Rancho 2.50-Inch Level-IT Suspension Lift Kit with RS9000XL Shocks (05-23 6-Lug Tacoma)

Item TT27763
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      Product Videos

      Merideth: If your 2005 or newer 6-Lug Tacoma needs a refresh when it comes to the suspension for better looks and performance, this Rancho 2.5-Inch Level-IT Suspension Lift Kit with the RS9000XL Shocks will be a great way to do it. Now, this will be a great addition for your Tacoma if you want to lift and level your truck for better ground clearance off-road, a more defined stance overall, and the ability to fit up to a 32-inch tire.Now, this kit will also come with everything that you need to replace those worn-out factory components for ones that will improve your ride quality, thanks to the premium adjustability here. So, no matter where you're taking your truck, whether you're daily driving it or taking it off-road, you can tailor your performance to your adventure.This will feature lifted front struts, front upper control arms, rear shocks, and rear lift blocks, as well as some smaller supporting components like differential drops, spacers, and brake line brackets that are included. Now, the front will achieve that 2.5 inches of lift while creating a stiffer or softer ride, depending on your preference, with nine levels of adjustment tailored to your driving. The shocks will do the same thing while being able to withstand heavier loads compared to the factory ones, and the rear blocks will be true-to-size and add 1.5 inches to the rear, leveling out the entire truck.Now, I would like to mention that while this fits up to a 32-inch tire, that is if you want no modification required to fit that. Now, if you're looking to add a 33, which is super common, do keep in mind that you may have to do some modification or trimming in order to fit that larger tire, especially if it has a more aggressive tread pattern.Now, getting into the construction, starting off with the biggest component here, the struts. Now, these will be made of a gas-charged modular assembly to offer better longevity out of the shock, especially when it's worked really hard on bumpy terrain. And again, they are going to be fully adjustable when it comes to the dampening so you can fine-tune your ride comfort. Now, the rear shocks will be just as durable with a steel housing, gas-charged design, and will also have the ability to adjust, which will be great in towing and off-road situations.The upper control arms here in the kit will be made of a steel construction with a tougher ball joint than factory, while also allowing more castor for an OE-like alignment for factory-like ride quality. You're also gonna see rear blocks that are made of a billet aluminum construction and all of the hardware and brackets to accommodate for that extra boost in height.This will come in at about $1,200, putting this on the more premium side for a 2.5-inch lift, but, of course, for good reason here. Now, compared to other kits, this is going to offer a lot of variety with the tunable struts and shocks, so you can dial in your needs when it comes to your application. Not to mention, it's a one-stop shop where you won't have to outsource to maintain ride quality, and you won't have to sacrifice the lifespan of your supporting components of your suspension thanks to the inclusivity of this kit.Now, install will be on the tougher side, considering you are swapping out your main suspension component. So, I'm gonna give this a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. But it should only take you about four hours to get the job done with the right hand tools, or right tools in general, and right setup. Now, at this point, we can head over to the shop and check out a detailed breakdown of what that install looks like step by step. So, that's gonna wrap it up for me. Let's go ahead and get into it.Man: Tools required for this install include an impact gun, a couple different sized air guns, a hand ratchet, electric ratchet, flathead screwdriver, a clip remover tool, a pair of Vise-Grips, needle-nose pliers, 14, 15, and 19-millimeter ratcheting wrenches, a 6-millimeter Allen bit, a 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19, 21, and 22-millimeter sockets, a couple different sized swivel adapters, an extension, an 11, 13, 16, 17, 19, and 22-millimeter wrench, a hammer, and a rubber mallet, and a pry bar, and some pole jacks or jack stands.What's up, guys? Today, we're installing a lift kit on our Tacoma. So let's get started. So, our first step is to remove our brake line bracket from our knuckle. It's held in by a 12-millimeter bolt, so we'll grab a 12-millimeter socket to take that out. Then we'll just pop our bracket out of the way. And throw our bolt back into the knuckle so we don't lose it.Now, right above that bolt we removed for our brake line bracket, we can remove the 17-millimeter nut on our sway bar end link. So, you can take a 17-millimeter socket to remove this. If the ball joint starts to spin, you can get in the hex cutout on the stud with the 6-millimeter Allen bit to hold it in place.Next, we can remove our tie rod end. So, we can grab a pair of needle-nose pliers to bend back our cotter pin and remove it. And then once we have our cotter pin removed, we can grab a 19-millimeter socket to remove our castle nut. And then we can leave that on a few threads. And we're gonna take a hammer and bang on the knuckle here to pop our ball joint free. And then we can fully remove our castle nut and slide our tie rod end out of our knuckle.Next, we can remove our upper ball joint from our knuckle. So, once again, we'll get a pair of needle-nose pliers for our cotter pin. And then we can take a 19-millimeter socket to remove the nut. I'm using a swivel adapter here to get in there easier. And then we'll also leave that one on a couple threads. And then we can take our hammer and bang on the knuckle. And then we can fully remove our nut.Next, we can remove our lower strut bolt. So, we're gonna grab a 19-millimeter wrench on our bolt side and a 19-millimeter socket on our nut side to take this out. And then we can tap out our bolt with a hammer. And if that bolt doesn't wanna come out, you can get a pry bar just to get the levers you need to pull it out.Next, we can take a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench to remove the 3 nuts at the top of our strut. Now we're gonna get that back one out first just because it's harder to get to, and the two in the front will hold it in place so that you can just screw it off by hand. Make sure not to drop this into the pit of no return. And then just hold the strut as you take off that last nut. And now with our upper and lower strut mounts removed, we can maneuver our strut out of place.Now, once you have your strut removed on one side, you're gonna repeat that same process on the other side. Now, to remove our upper control arm, the first thing we need to do is remove these two covers. So, it's just held in by a bunch of push clips, so we'll get a clip remover tool just to pop these out. And then next, we have a 10-millimeter bolt that holds in our ABS line bracket. Now we can grab that 10-millimeter socket to take that bolt out.And now we have the fun task of removing the super-long bolt, so we'll get a 19-millimeter socket on the nut side and a 19-millimeter wrench on the bolt side to get our nut off. And then we'll pop off our washer. And now we're gonna have to start sliding our bolt behind this inner lip of the fender here. You might have to grab a pair of Vise-Grips to pull back on the metal. So, we'll start feeding that through. Might have to get some wires pushed out of the way. And then we can do that same thing on the other side.Next, we can remove, our splash guard. It's held in by a bunch of 10-millimeter bolts. There are two tucked away on the inside of the splash guard on either side. So, we'll get those first, and then remove the whole bunch of them across the front. So, we'll grab a 10-millimeter socket and take these out. And then we can do that same thing for the two inner bolts on the other side. So, now coming to the front, we can remove the rest of our 10-millimeter bolts.Next, we can remove our skid plate. We've got four 12-millimeter bolts that hold it in, so we'll grab a 12-millimeter socket to take these out. And then we can just pop these off our two hooks and remove it. So, next, we're gonna need to bring our strut over to the spring compressor. We're gonna have to transfer over our top hat as well as our spring onto our shock for the front. So, we're gonna get this set up in the spring compressor, and then we can start to apply pressure onto our spring.So, now with our spring under pressure, we can take a 17-millimeter ratcheting wrench for our nut and a pair of Vise-Grips for the stud, and loosen up our nut. And then you're gonna want to grab your shock at the bottom. And you can twist the nut the rest of the way off by hand and remove our shock. So, now we can remove our upper bushing and plate. And we can use a flathead screwdriver to push out our inner bushing.So, now with our shock removed, we can remove our top plate and bushing. Then we can grab our new shock and put our bottom plate up. And then we can put that through our spring, and through our top hat. We'll line up our bottom collar, and then install our new bushing and plate up top, followed by our nut. And then while keeping everything aligned at the bottom, we can start to release some pressure.Now, our new nut is a 19-millimeter, so we'll grab a 19-millimeter ratcheting wrench, start tightening down our nut. Now, once our studs start to spin, we can grab our Vise-Grips to hold that down. So, now once the bushing starts to expand, you can start to release tension from the spring, and then we can do the same thing for our other strip.Next, we can install our front diff spacers. So, we're gonna remove the bolt, it's a 22-millimeter bolt with a 19-millimeter nut. And then we'll lower down our diff to install our spacer. And then we have a new bolt with flat washers and nut that we can install in its place. Now we'll take our 22-millimeter socket on our bolt and our 19-millimeter wrench on our nut and loosen it up. Also, you're gonna want a pole jack on your differential to support the weight of it. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side. And then we can lower down our pole jack to make space for our spacer.We're gonna take the larger washer off of our factory bolt. We're gonna have one of our flat washers on the end of our bolt, and then slide our washer on top of that. We'll get our spacer in place and set our bolt through. And then we'll get our second flat washer and our nut, and get that on the end of our bolt. And then we'll just do that same thing on the other side, and then we'll raise up on our diff. Now we're gonna have a 22-millimeter bolt and a 22-millimeter nut, so we're gonna grab a 22-millimeter wrench and socket to tighten this down. And then, same thing on the other side. And then you can release your pole jack.Next, we're going to install our sway bar spacers. Now, I've already loosened up the bolts on the other side. I've got a buddy holding it up. And then we'll get a 14-millimeter socket to remove these two bolts. And now we have longer bolts with flat washers to replace those. We'll slide our spacer into place and get our bolt through. And now we can take a 17-millimeter socket to tighten down our two bolts. You're gonna wanna make sure you tighten these down evenly. And then let's do the same thing on the other side.Next, we can reinstall our skid plate. Now, since we have our spacers for our differential, our OEM bolts aren't gonna work, so we get longer bolts with a flat washer. And then between the skid plate and our mounting holes, we have a little spacer. So, we'll start by getting our skid plate up onto our hooks, and then we can feed our bolt through, and slide our spacer on from the inside. And we're gonna do that for both of our front bolts before we raise it up. And then once we have our two fronts in, we can do the same thing at the back. And then we can take our 13-millimeter socket to tighten these down.So, now we're ready to install our upper control arm, but before we get in the truck, we need to mount our grease fitting into the top here. So, we're just gonna thread this in, tighten it up with a 7-millimeter socket, and then we can put our dust cap right on top. Now, these ball joints are pre-greased from the factory, so we can install our fitting on top, snug it up just a little bit with our 7-millimeter socket, and then we can pop our dust cap right on top. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side.So, now we'll slide our upper control arm into place underneath of our ABS wire, and then we'll get our long bolt and we'll slide that up through our fender. We'll get that large washer we just dropped, slide that onto the end. So, now I'm gonna throw an extension in the other side just to keep that side aligned while we try to fit our bolt through that hole. And then once we have that through, we can install our large washer on the other side. And now this kit comes with a new nut for the other side of our bolt.So, now we'll tighten this down with a 21-millimeter socket and 19-millimeter wrench. And then we can do the same thing on the other side. So, now we're ready to install our strut. We're gonna be adding our spacer onto the studs on the top of our strut, and then we can raise it up into the top of our strut tower and hand tighten our three nuts at the top.Now we'll get our nuts onto our studs. Carefully get the one on the back on, and then we can work on getting it into our lower strut mount. So, now we can lift up on our lower control arm to get our bolt into place. Now, once you have it through on both sides, you can just tap it the rest of the way through with a hammer. And then we'll get our washer and nut on the other side. And then we'll take our 19-millimeter socket and wrench to tighten that down. And now we can go back up top and grab a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench to tighten down our three nuts.Now we're gonna tighten down the two up front first since we don't have as much room to access the back. Once we tighten these down, we can thread the back most of the way on by hand. And we'll go in the back, tighten that one up as much as we can. Next, we can connect our knuckle to our upper control arm and we'll install our castle nut onto the stud. Then we can grab a 22-millimeter socket to tighten that nut down. And then we're gonna get our cotter pin through the hole in our castle nut, so you're gonna have to line up one of the slots with the hole in the stud. You're always gonna want to tighten this and never loosen it to line up that hole.And now with the hole lined up, we can slide our pin through and then use a pair of needle-nose pliers to bend our pin. And then we can do that same thing on the other side. Next, we can connect our ABS line to our upper control arm. So, we're gonna have to pop it out of this bracket. Now, if your clip's a little tight, you can get a flathead screwdriver in here to pop it open.And then we can take our clip, put our ABS line through it, pinch that closed. And then we'll be using our bolt with a flat washer, put that through the bracket on our upper control arm, and then we'll add another flat washer and our lock nut onto our bolt. And then we'll take an 11-millimeter socket and wrench to tighten that down. And then we can do that same thing on the other side.Now, next, we can reconnect our sway bar end link as well as our brake line bracket. We'll pop off our nut, and slide that through, and take our 17-millimeter socket to tighten it down. And then we can remove the bolt for our brake line bracket, slide that into place, and then we can tighten that down with our 12-millimeter socket. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side.Now we can reconnect our tie rod end. We'll slide that into the knuckle, and then thread on our castle nut. And then we're gonna tighten that down. We want these notches in the castle nut to line up with the hole in the stud so we can put our cotter pin in through. You're always gonna want to tighten it to get to that hole and never loosen it. And now we can stick our cotter pin through the hole. And then we can grab onto the other side and bend those tabs in opposite directions. And we'll do the same thing on the other side. And now we can reinstall our two covers, and do that same thing on the other side.And now the last thing we need to do is reinstall our splash guard. So, we'll get it lined up and reinstall all of our 10-millimeter bolts. And then we'll tighten those down with our 10-millimeter socket. And then we can come back inside the corners of our bumper to reinstall our last two screws on each side, and then tighten those down with that same 10-millimeter socket, and do the same thing on the other side.Now, moving on to the rear, to remove our shock, we have a 14-millimeter nut at the top. We also have a piece of the stud up here that we can grab with a set of Vise-Grips to prevent the whole stud from spinning. And then at the bottom, we have a 17-millimeter bolt with a 17-millimeter nut. So, we'll take that off with a 17-millimeter socket and wrench.So, now we'll get our 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench onto our nut, and then we'll slide our Vise-Grip onto our stud. And then we can put the Vise-Grips against our frame here to prevent it from spinning and loosen up our nut. Then we can remove those Vise-Grips and get our nut the rest of the way off, and then we can remove our metal plate and bushing. And then we'll come to our lower shock mount and get a 17-millimeter socket and wrench to remove our bolt. Now, if you have trouble getting this out, you can just compress the shock to remove it, and then we can use a pry bar to get it out of our lower mount. And then we can do that same thing on the other side.So, next, we can remove the four nuts that are holding our axle to our leaf spring. You're gonna want to get a pole jack on each side for this to support the weight of the axle. And then we'll grab a 19-millimeter socket to loosen up these nuts. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side. And now we can just pull up on our U-bolts to remove them, and do the same thing on the other side.So, now with our rear axle dropped down, we can install our lift block. Now we have this gold pin that we're gonna put into the hole, and then that pin is gonna go into the support on our axle. So, now our alignment pin is gonna go down and pop into that hole to lock it into place. And then we'll get our lift block on the other side and we can start raising our axle up to meet our leaf spring.So, now we can install our new U-bolts that are included in our kit. We're gonna make sure to go behind these wires and lines. And then we'll put that through our plate. And then we can start installing our washers and nuts that are also included in the kit. And then we can grab our 22-millimeter socket to tighten these down. We're gonna tighten these down evenly using a cross pattern.So, now we're ready to install our shock. Now, there is a nut on the top of the shock that you need to turn to the left of the 16-millimeter wrench to uncompress it. And then we're just gonna put one of our plates. We'll get one of our plates on the bottom, and then we'll put our bushing on. Now, you're gonna want the smaller side facing up, and then we can slide that up into our upper shock mount. We're gonna grab another bushing, the smaller side's gonna be facing down this time, and then we'll pop another plate on there, and then finally, we'll thread on our nut.Next, we can install our lower shock bolt. Now, you're gonna wanna make sure that the alignment knob is facing out so that you can adjust that as needed. And then we can just wiggle our shock into place and then start our bolt through. You might need to use a pry bar to get this to go through.Now, once you have your bolt pushed through, you can install your washer and nut on the other side. And then we'll take our 17-millimeter socket and wrench to tighten that down. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side. And then we can take a 14-millimeter ratcheting wrench to our upper shock nut to tighten that down. And then we'll repeat that process on the other side. And then we can zip tie the bottom of our boot here, and we'll cut off the excess with a pair of scissors or diagonal cutters, and do the same thing on the other side.Now, to wrap up the rear, we need to install our drop bracket for our e-brake cable. So, we'll take a 13-millimeter socket to remove our bolt. And then we can rethread that bolt through our bracket and tighten that down with the same 13-millimeter socket. And then we'll be installing the included bolt with a flat washer. And on the backside, we have another flat washer and a locking nut. And then we'll just grab a 13-millimeter socket and wrench to tighten that down. And then we'll do that same thing on the other side.Now, moving towards the front, we can install our carrier-bearing spacers. So, I've got a pole jack supporting the weight of our drive shaft. And then we can grab a 14-millimeter socket to remove our two bolts. We have a couple of replacement bolts that'll go in these bolt spots. And now we can start to lower our pole jack until we have enough room to get our spacers in. And then we'll install our new bolts with the flat washers. And then we'll just raise our pole jack back up. And then we can take that same 14-millimeter socket to tighten down our new bolts.So, that'll wrap up this review and install of the Rancho 2.5 Level-IT Suspension Lift Kit with RS9000XL Shocks for your 2005 and newer 6-Lug Tacoma. Thank you for watching. And for all things Tacoma, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

      Product Information

      Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

      Features & Specs

      • Rancho 2.50-Inch Level-IT Suspension Lift Kit with RS9000XL Shocks
      • One-Piece Reinforced Subframe
      • Perfect For Any On Or Off-Road Terrain
      • Specifically Designed In AutoCAD For Precise Fitting
      • Medium Installation Difficulty; Professional Installation Recommended
      • Limited Lifetime Warranty
      • Fits The 2005-2023 6-Lug Tacoma

      Description

      Rancho 2.50-Inch Level-IT Suspension Lift Kit with RS9000XL Shocks. If you're looking to lift your vehicle to the next level, then this Rancho 2.50-Inch Level-IT Suspension Lift Kit with RS9000XL Shocks is for you. It features a one-piece reinforced subframe which is perfect for any on or off-road terrain.

      Durability And Construction. The product is made out of premium-quality materials and is specifically designed in AutoCAD to ensure precise fitment for your OEM vehicle.

      Installation. The Rancho 2.50-Inch Level-IT Suspension Lift Kit with RS9000XL Shocks has a medium installation difficulty and we recommend hiring a professional to install the product for you.

      Warranty. The product is backed by a limited lifetime warranty.

      Application. The Rancho 2.50-Inch Level-IT Suspension Lift Kit with RS9000XL Shocks fits the 2005-2023 6-Lug Tacoma.

      Fitment:

      Details

      Rancho RS66905R9K

      CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

      Installation & What's in the Box

      Installation Info

      What's in the Box

      • (1) Rear Block And U-Bolts
      • (1) Installation Hardware
      • (2) Struts
      • (2) Shocks
      • (2) Sway Bar Spacers
      • (2) Upper Control Arms
      • (2) Shock Spacers
      • (2) Diff Drop Spacers
      4.9

      Customer Reviews (30)

        Questions & Answers

        10 More Questions

        Will It Fit My Tacoma

        • 2.7L I4 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 23
        • 3.5L V6 - 23
        • 4.0L V6 - 05, 06, 07, 08, 09, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15