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Morimoto GEN2 XB LED Turn Signals; Smoked (20-24 Jeep Gladiator JT, Excluding Sport)

Item JG2043
ExtremeTerrain no longer carries the Morimoto GEN2 XB LED Turn Signals; Smoked (20-24 Jeep Gladiator JT, Excluding Sport). Please check out 2020-2024 Jeep Gladiator Daytime, Turn Signal & Parking Lights for an updated selection.
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    Product Videos

    Hey guys, it's Sara with extremeterrain.com. And today, we have a review and install of the Morimoto GEN2 XB LED Turn Signals with a Smoked Lens, fitting your 2020 and newer Jeep Gladiator models excluding the Sport. These turn signals are perfect for the Gladiator owner who wants to upgrade to an LED and wants one with a smoked lens and sequential turn signal. These turn signals are brighter than your factory halogen bulbs and being an LED will outlast the life of those factory turn signals. They utilize premium white LEDs for the daytime running lights and offer a sequential LED amber turn signal. They are constructed from polycarbonate smoked lenses with black injection molded plastic housings and have a waterproof rating of IP67, which is one of the highest waterproof ratings for electronics.So as far as price goes, this option comes in at around $300 for the pair, putting them about middle of the road price-wise when compared to other options. And for your money, you are getting an LED turn signal with a smoked appearance and sequential turn signal. And as far as the install goes, I'm giving this one a two out of three wrenches on the difficulty meter. It does feature a direct bolt-up and plug-and-play install that can be done within two hours. So, with that said, let's check out that install.For this install, we used an electric ratchet but a regular hand ratchet will work just fine. You'll also need a 10-millimeter socket, as well as a T30 Torx socket. You may also want a small extension. You'll also need a pair of cutters, a pop clip removal tool, and you may want a trim panel removal tool, as well as a Phillips and small flat-head screwdriver.All right. So there's a few different ways to tackle this install. Now you can remove the entire fender off of your Jeep and that way will give you a little bit more room to work with. But for those of you who do not want to remove the whole fender, you can access it by removing your wheel well liner and that does take a bit of finagling at the front to slide that light out. Either way, the steps are pretty much the same. The only difference is that if you would like to remove the fender, you just have to pull it off and be prepared to replace all of those clips.All in all, the first step is gonna be to grab a pop clip removal tool and remove all of the pop clips on the inside of the fender here. You'll see several pop clips around the out edge of the fender. What we're gonna do is grab this pop clip removal tool and remove each of these.Try your best not to break them because we will be reusing them. You can also go behind each clip and pop it out that way as well. And set them to the side. And there should be two more pop clips towards the back of your wheel well in these locations. This truck has an aftermarket mudflap so we're gonna remove these knobs here so we can remove the wheel well liner. You will need a pop clip removal tool and remove these two pop clips the same as the others.Now there's one more pop clip towards the inside of the fender right towards the back of your grille. Pop that one out as well. Now there are several 10-millimeter bolts, so we're gonna go about removing those so we can remove the wheel well liner. This one is towards the front of the wheel well liner. Grab that 10-millimeter socket and get it removed.Keep moving along the liner and remove the rest of the 10 millimeters. There's two towards the top of the wheel well. Grab that 10-millimeter socket and get this removed. Go ahead and remove that second one at the top of the wheel well as well.And now that all the pop clips and hardware are removed from your wheel well liner, you can grab a trim tool or your pop clip removal tool and just go along the edge and pop it out from the fender itself. Go behind every plastic rivet, and just pop it forward. And remove the liner itself.Now with the wheel well liner out of the way, we can disconnect the main harness for your light. All you need to do is pull back on this red tab. You can do it by hand or a small flat-head will just help you pull it back. And then press down on the black tab and disconnect it. And now that you have that harness disconnected, you'll need to remove each of the pop clips that are holding it on. Grab a pop clip removal tool and pop each of these out. Keep going until you've removed all of these pop clips. Some of them can be a little hard to get to. That's why removing the fender makes this a bit easier, but it is not impossible if you'd like to leave your fender in place.And now that you have all the pop clips on this harness removed, go ahead and route this harness towards the front over top of those two-frame pieces so we can remove it with the light when we remove it off of our truck.And now that we have the wiring harness disconnected, we do need to remove two more 10-millimeter bolts that hold on this plastic support holding in your light. Go ahead and grab your 10-millimeter socket and get these removed. This second one might be a little bit hard to see because it is recessed. You can put your socket through this plastic trim piece and get it removed.Now we do need to drop this trim piece down here. And to do that, there is one more Phillips head pop clip right in the bottom. So, with a Phillips head, you can twist this out. And you also may need a pop clip removal tool to pull it out all the way. Now you'll see the plastic support is held on by three Torx bolts. Grab a T30 Torx socket and remove these.Now if you wanna know the reason why people take the fender all the way off, it has to do with this plastic piece here and how it sits on top of this frame tab. Now you can't really pull this down how it sits, so you can't really get this light out effectively. However, if you do not wanna take the fender off, what you can do is grab the fender and pull back. Since all the bolts are removed, you can do this. And then at the same time, pull out and down. And now this plastic piece will come down exposing those last two bolts and we can actually get this out without removing that fender. And now that we've dropped this plastic piece down and exposed these two bolts, we can grab the T30 Torx socket and remove these two.Now there are two more bolts on top. They're also T30s. So, grab that T30 Torx socket and get it removed. And repeat that for the other one as well.Now you'll notice one more T30 Torx bolt. This one holds on your side marker. Now you don't have to take this off right now, but it does have to come off eventually and it may make it easier to remove that light. So go ahead and grab that T30 Torx socket and get this removed.Now we wanna disconnect that side marker light. You'll see a very small connector right on the wiring harness here. This will have to come off and you can use your hand or you can use a small flat-head. Just pry up on that tab and pull it out. Now that we have this side marker disconnected, what we can do is removed it by pushing forward. That will release it from the tabs. Then you can pull it straight out.Now that we have the light completely disconnected, there is one more thing holding it on, and that is some double-side adhesive right on the front. Just make sure as you pull down on the light, you're putting either your hand or a trim tool in the front to disconnect that adhesive. Now if it is stuck in, that's most likely why. So just take a look at the front and double-check that adhesive is completely removed. And you may need to pull back on this plastic support a bit in order to get the light to start to come out. And again, we're gonna be tilting this down as we do this.And with a little bit of wiggling, it does come out. And now that our light is removed, we can get this new one installed. Before we do that, I did wanna point out that it does come with a ballast separately. We need to make sure we're plugging this in. You'll see a connector. It should be a smaller two-pin connector. Grab the end of that ballast connector and make sure you plug that in before you get it installed. We will get this mounted up either with zip ties or you can use a self-tapper or other method of mounting, but we are gonna get this light mounted up first and then we'll route the harness.Now we're gonna slide this light in in sort of the reverse way we slid the factory one out. Now keep in mind because we did it this method and decided not to take the fender off, it may take a bit of finagling to get it to sit in place. Now if this is not for you and you'd rather remove the fender, you're definitely more than welcome and that's a perfectly acceptable way to do this install.Then once we have it in place, we can get it bolted down. Now we can reinstall the four bolts that hold on the corners of this light. Grab that factory hardware and get it threaded through your new light and into those clip nuts.Once you have them threaded in, grab that T30 Torx socket and tighten these down. Now you can repeat that with the two mounting points up top. And with that T30 Torx socket, tighten it down.Now we can get our marker light bolted up and attached to the main light. You'll see two-tabbed openings in this light and two tabs on the side of your main light. What you need to do here is just go ahead and slide that wiring harness through the opening. You will be lining up this opening here with the opening right in the side light. Go ahead and make sure those tabs are lined up in place. It might not sit completely flush until you tighten it down. Go ahead and slide that factory bolt in the opening. Then with your T30 Torx socket, tighten this down.Now once you have that tight, we can plug in this part of the wiring harness. Go ahead and line up that small two-pin connector with that connector on your new harness and click it in place. Now that you have the light bolted down, we can reinstall this flap on the bottom. Keep in mind we are just going around this frame piece here. So, what we're gonna do is the same thing we did to get this out of place. Pull back on the fender, push up on the tab until it slides back in place. Now grab your factory bolts. These are the coarse thread. And get them lined up through this plastic support piece into the light. Once you have that, grab that T30 Torx socket and tighten it down.Repeat that for your other two bolts.Now that your light is all bolted up, we can route the wiring harness. We're just going up above these two support pieces for your fender. We're gonna take about the same route that the factory wiring harness took. And don't forget to route this ballast as well. And we'll get it zip tied up in just a second. Now, of course, you're welcome to route this however you like, but I think this is the best way to keep the harness safe.Now before we can plug in this main harness here, what we need to do is plug in this red cable. This allows power to the LED marker light. So go ahead and plug that in. Make sure it's nice and fully connected, and then we can plug in this main connector. And now that you have the red wire plugged in, we can plug in our main connector. Make sure you press down on the gray tab to lock it in place.All right. Now we wanna make sure that the ballast is mounted up somewhere secure so it's not moving around. And keep in mind this may get a little bit warm, so you wanna keep it away from anything that may melt. I'm gonna zip tie it right to this metal support here. And again, you can go wherever you like as long as it is secured.Make sure you trim off the excess. And throw some additional zip ties on to mount up the rest of your wiring. Now that you have your wiring harness all secured up nice and neat, we can reinstall the fender liner. Go ahead and slide that over top of your tire, and then start to line up this lip on the outside.Now we can get all of our pop clips reinstalled. And now that the fender liner is in place, we can reinstall the hardware. We're gonna start with the two top bolts all the way towards the top of your wheel well. Go ahead and thread each one in. Then with a 10-millimeter socket, tighten it down.Repeat that for your other bolts.Now there's a few more bolts towards the front of the wheel well, go ahead and thread those in as well. And with that 10-millimeter socket, tighten it down.Now there's two more bolts. One has to go in this opening here and one a little bit down here. Go ahead and grab that 10-millimeter. I'm using an extension as well to help get it lined up. And once you do that, go ahead and grab this 10-mil and tighten it down.Now the second one is right under here. You can actually see this one. It's just slightly in front of your wheel well liner. Go ahead and thread that in. And with your 10-millimeter socket, tighten it down.Now go ahead and line up and reinstall of those pop clips. Go around the wheel well liner and make sure the rest of your pop clips are installed. Don't forget about the pop clip in the bottom of your plastic piece. And don't forget about the two pop clips at the back of our wheel well. This Gladiator has an aftermarket mudflap, so we'll be reinstalling that now.And now that we have your factory light uninstalled from our Jeep, we can check it out side-by-side with your new light here. Now as you can see, the biggest difference is the tinted lens on the outside. This will give the front of your Jeep a more blacked-out aftermarket look when compared to that clear and chrome of the factory. In addition, this new light also features LEDs and sequential turn signals, which is a nice upgrade from the halogen and traditional blinker of your factory. So, with that said, go ahead and repeat all of those steps to install it on the opposite side.All right. So that is gonna do it for the review and install of these turn signals. And remember, for all things Gladiator, keep it right here at extremeterrain.com.

    Product Information

    Features, Description, Reviews, Q&A, Specs & Installation

    Features

    • GEN2 XB LED Turn Signals
    • Improves Visibility and Safety
    • Utilizes Premium Osram LEDs
    • White Light for DRL/Parking and Amber for Turn Modes
    • High-Impact, Polycarbonate Smoked Lenses
    • Injection-Molded, ABS Black Housing
    • IP67 Waterproof Weather Rating
    • Direct-Fit Replacement; Some Wiring Required
    • Sold as a Pair
    • Includes a 5-Year Warranty
    • Designed to Fit 2020-2024 Jeep Gladiator JTs, Excluding Sport Models

    Description

    Improves Visibility and Safety. Adding these Morimoto GEN2 XB LED Turn Signals; Smoked helps improve your Gladiator's visibility and safety on the road. With their luminous light output, your vehicle can be easily noticed by other motorists, allowing them to maintain a safe distance. Furthermore, these turn signals turn white in their DRL/parking mode, while they become amber in color when activated in turn mode.

    Brilliant Illumination. These turn signals offer brilliant illumination. Utilizing premium Osram LEDs, they are able to generate a brighter and more efficient lighting performance.

    High-Quality Construction. To deliver reliable and long-lasting performance, these turn signals are constructed with high-impact, polycarbonate smoked lenses and injection-molded, ABS black housing. Furthermore, they come with an IP67 waterproof weather rating. Provided with regular care, these turn signals are guaranteed to serve you for several years.

    Direct-Fit Replacement. These turn signals are built as direct replacements for your factory lights. Geared with the right tools and mechanical skills, you can easily mount these to your truck's existing points. For added convenience, these turn signals are already equipped with all the necessary modules and connectors. Some wiring will be required.

    Includes a 5-Year Warranty. For your assurance, these turn signals include a 5-year warranty. For more warranty information, please visit the official Morimoto website.

    Application. These Morimoto GEN2 XB LED Turn Signals; Smoked are designed to fit 2020-2024 Jeep Gladiator JTs, excluding Sport models.

    CA Residents: WARNING: Cancer and Reproductive Harm - www.P65Warnings.ca.gov

    Installation & What's in the Box

    Installation Info

    What's in the Box

    • (1) Turn Signal Assembly, Driver Side
    • (1) Turn Signal Assembly, Passenger Side
    4.8

    Customer Reviews (55)

      Questions & Answers

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